Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines — John Shaqi
Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machinesBrown, Samuel
History
Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines
Brown, Samuel
Elastic fabrics; Looms; Rubber industry and trade; Textile fabrics; Weaving
A four leaf twill, however, can be used to great advantage when a heavy
body is desired, as for example what is known as “farmer’s web.” These
are usually made about two inches wide, and to further add to their
weight they have what is termed a cushion back, the weave of which is 7
down and 1 up. The use of these soft weaves on both face and back, while
giving the web great thickness on account of the deep velvet-like pile
produced, deprives it of much of its firmness. This condition is met by
the introduction of an auxiliary back warp, underneath the main back
warp, weaving 3 down and 1 up, which knits the upper and lower cloth more
firmly together, thus increasing the firmness of handles of the goods.
[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Five Thread Face Over 6 Dent Repeat]
Another web among the plain loom products calling for passing mention is
that specially made for the police and fireman’s brace. While this has
a 7 down and 1 up cushion back similar to the farmer’s web, it differs
in having a smooth plain face in place of a twill. This arrangement of
combining a plain face with a cushion back necessitates selection of
the sizes of yarn used for the various warps so as to maintain a proper
balance of the different weaves employed in the face and back. Otherwise
the goods would curl up and it would be impracticable to cut them up for
manufacture. Consideration must also be given to the effect of padding
the size upon such goods in the finishing process, of which we will say
more later.
FILLING FANCY EFFECTS
All the webs so far described have been such as could be produced on cam
looms of various capacities. We will now turn our attention to what are
generally understood as fancy effects. It might be well to treat these
under two distinct headings. Those made with the shuttle, or what are
called filling patterns, and those made from the warp, or what are called
stitch patterns.
The figures or fancy effects produced by floating the filling over
sections of the warp show up the filling with increased luster in
contrast to the warp. They are confined to no particular character of
design, and may range from the simplest effect produced on the fancy
harness loom or dobby to the more elaborate jacquard design. The
ground or body may be either plain or twill, or any other acceptable
weave suitable as a base for figuring, while the filling may be of a
contrasting color, either of silk or cotton as desired. The figure or
design may be made from the same shuttle used for the ground or it may
be made by an auxiliary shuttle, either used as an overshot or rise and
fall, according to the character of web desired.
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