Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machinesBrown, Samuel
History
Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines
Brown, Samuel
Elastic fabrics; Looms; Rubber industry and trade; Textile fabrics; Weaving
An altogether different type of figuring is seen in Figs. 2 and 3. Both
of these webs illustrate what is known as the sunken effect. In both
cases the face is a three-leaf twill, which character of weave is most
effective in hiding the filling beneath it. Therefore, the figure may
be worked out in sharp contrast. In Fig. 2, which is made on a fancy
head loom, it will be noticed that the face threads on the fifth cord on
either side are left out in order to assist in the carrying out of the
plaid effect aimed at in the figure. It will also be seen that the face
warp is striped in color. The character of the figure is such that the
major part of the face warp is operated in one solid block, making it
practicable to produce this on harnesses worked on a chain loom.
In the web illustrated at Fig. 3, each thread is operated in the design
independently. Such designs are only producible on a jacquard loom. But
inasmuch as the threads used in forming the figure are confined to the
face warp, it is not necessary to operate the back or binder threads from
the jacquard. It is more convenient to have these worked from the cams or
fancy head in combination with the jacquard, for the reason that a truer
and clearer shed can be obtained.
Furthermore, by having the back harness and the jacquard operated from
two distinct movements it becomes possible to time them differently so
as to obtain better results in the clearance of the stock in the shed. A
208 hook machine affords ample capacity for the making of these goods,
allowing for 26 rows of 8 hooks each, which will cover the requirements
of nearly all classes of web, giving an entire row to each cord. Such
arrangements will allow for six hooks for the face, one for the binder
and one for the gut on each row. Thus it will be practicable to use
different colored threads for the gut, which may be brought up in the
design in relief effects to the main figure as required.
CALCULATION FOR FIGURE DISTRIBUTION
In this type of figuring, calculation must be made to distribute the
figure uniformly so as to get a well balanced flat effect of the web.
As already stated, wherever the filling is shown, all the face stock at
these points is buried between the upper and the lower cloths, and is
acting as filler or gut in these places, preventing contraction. Should
heavy blocks be thus designed, the web would pucker up in an unseemly
manner. The filling used should be soft and uniformly spun, so that it
will mass well together and in a great measure prevent the buried face
stock from pricking through.
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