As most of the fancy head looms have not more than 18 harnesses, it will be seen that the scope of design in this class of loom is somewhat limited, therefore much ingenuity is required to get elaborate designs from such limited capacity. But careful study opens up a variety of methods by which a big range of designs is possible. INTERCHANGING FIGURE AND FACE Fig. 5 shows another type of design known as the “interchanging” fancy in which the figure warp does not pile up above the surface as it does in the stitch figure, but remains flat with the face of the web. The harness and chain drafts are shown at Fig. 5A. In this character of design a given number of face threads are duplicated by a like number of figure threads, the same size of yarn being used for both. These face and figure threads are drawn in duplicate harnesses and operated just reverse to each other, so that when the figure is up at any particular part, the interchanging face threads are down, and vice versa. The figure weaves only three picks up on the chain draft, which is one face pick seen on the face cloth, and this produces a perfectly flat web. Another form of elaboration is shown in this web, known as the “picot” edge. It is generally made of a well cabled thread of silk and is woven in the selvage, being bound in for several picks and then allowed to float outside, so that upon the contraction of the web it will pearl out in small loops, adding much to the elaboration of the web. CHAPTER VI. _Combination of Weaves in a Fine Web—Sunken Effects Made on Head Motion and Jacquard Looms—Employment of More Than One Bank of Shuttles—The Overshot Method—Use of Different Colors and Grades of Stock—Binding Long Floats_ A very effective combination of weaves in a fine web is seen at Fig. 1. The middle of this web has for the face a 7 up and 1 down weave, but the yarn and picking are fine. The yarn piles up just enough next to the plain edge weave to set off the weaves in contrast to each other. It will be noted that on either side of the silk figure there are two cords with the binder thread left out between each, which further sharpens up the contrast. The fancy effect is produced by the use of a heavy cabled cord, the two outside threads being of reverse twist, so that when they pearl up on contraction of the web, one turns to the right and the other turns to the left, making an effective border. SUNKEN EFFECTS