In making overshot designs, care must be taken not to have the silk float too long, or it will give the goods a rough coarse appearance. Should the design call for a long span over a number of cords, it will be necessary to bind at intervals as shown in Fig. 5A, and at each succeeding pick to break the order of the binding as may seem advisable. The stitch or warp figure coming up at each side of the main figure, must be pegged on the dobby chain to operate on the reverse knife to the overshot figure, so as to work on the pick when the binder harness is down. [Illustration: Figs. 6 and 7.—Other Forms of Overshot Design] Fig. 6 is an example of another form of overshot design, known as the “matelasse.” In this the silk filling extends from side to side of the web, as in the old form of jacquard, being bound down at different points, the bindings forming the figure. Fig. 7 shows still another form of overshot made by the operation of the gut as figure instead of the binder, and which is worked on the heavy pick instead of on the binder pick. This is done so that the intersecting cords of face, which hide the silk at different points, can be raised in order that the figure silk be hidden underneath it. To accomplish this, each of these face threads is passed through slip leashes, which are operated from the dobby. These slip leashes allow for the working of the face thread in the main harness. At the same time it is possible to raise them to the height of the upper shed so that the silk shuttle may pass under them. CHAPTER VII. _Making Frills in the Middle of Goods—Woven Shirred Effects—Novel Decoration at Edge of Fancy Frills—Lappet Weaving on Elastic Fabrics Affords Opportunity for Elaboration at Small Cost—Production of Pearl Edge—Special Fancy Drafts_ Woven elastic fabrics are open to many forms of elaboration that are not possible in non-elastic weaving. We have already made mention of the frills woven at the outer edges of the goods, formed by the fluting of non-elastic sections produced by the contraction of the center part. This same effect may also be used in the center of the goods. To accomplish this it becomes necessary to employ a distinct set of harnesses to operate each half of the web, together with additional harnesses on which the frill sections are drawn in. The chain draft is arranged so that the shuttle is made to pass through one-half of the web and a half section of the frill, and then return. The shuttle then passes through the other half section of body and frill. The operation is repeated continuously. Fig. 1 shows a sample of web in which the frill is brought up for a distance and then buried inside the goods for a short section. Fig. 1A gives the harness and chain draft. [Illustration: Fig. 1.—Web With Center Frill] [Illustration: Fig. 2.—Fancy Figure With Seersucker Center]