Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machinesBrown, Samuel
History
Elastic and non-elastic narrow fabrics : $b and a chapter on narrow fabrics made on knitting machines
Brown, Samuel
Elastic fabrics; Looms; Rubber industry and trade; Textile fabrics; Weaving
The weave used for producing a frill may also be used in the center of
the main body; it then produces a seersucker effect. At Fig. 2 there will
be seen an example of this, in combination with a figure on either side
of the seersucker, the figure part being bordered with a regular frill.
The insertion of this seersucker section lessens the number of rubber
strands used in the whole, and it therefore will be found advisable
to use a somewhat heavier size of rubber in the remaining cords to
compensate for this. The harness and chain draft for Fig. 2 are given at
Fig. 2A.
WOVEN SHIRRED EFFECT
Another example of an effective form of fancy elastic weaving may be
seen at Fig. 3, where the center or rubber part of the web is made to
imitate a shirred effect. In the regular method of shirring a piece of
plain elastic web is used, under tension, and is passed through a sewing
machine where a wider piece of ribbon or some other light non-elastic
material is stitched to it by a series of needles running side by side.
When the web contracts, upon being released from tension, the non-elastic
part forms in a regular fluting on the face of the web. At the same time
the remainder of the wider non-elastic section frills up on either side
of the elastic part.
[Illustration: Fig. 1A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 1]
[Illustration: Fig. 2A.—Harness and Chain Draft for Fig. 2]
The method of producing this effect direct upon the loom is done by an
interchange of weaves, first making a short section of single cloth
and then changing to a short section of double cloth weave. There being
no binder warp employed to knit the upper and lower cloths together,
the strands of rubber will lie between the two cloths so formed. Upon
the contraction of these strands of rubber the outer cloths are thrown
out, and appear as flutings on the web, while the side sections in which
there is no rubber will complete the frill effect. This woven method has
in it the advantage of making both sides of the web alike, whereas in
the stitched shirring the back of the goods is not so presentable and
unfits it for many uses. It also eliminates the added expense of labor in
assembling the different parts.
NOVEL DECORATION AT EDGES
A novel form of decoration is seen at the extreme edge of the fancy frill
at Fig. 4. This may be produced by what is known as the draw-in method.
This effect was formerly produced by the use of additional banks of
shuttles in a rise and fall lay, but is now made by using two threads of
cabled silk coming from spools, these threads being worked by the harness
the same as a warp. They are very lightly delivered by a delicately
adjusted return spring arrangement. The threads are operated on a special
harness, being passed through the harness eyes outside of all the other
warp stock, and then through a dent in the front reed as far away from
the other stock as is desirable to form the size of the loop required.
[Illustration: Fig. 3.—Woven Shirred Effect]
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