First view of Mukden--The streets, shops, and inhabitants-- Public buildings--The Palace--The Russian occupation-- Friendliness of Russians and Manchus--Administrative divisions of Manchuria--Official reception by the Governor-- A luncheon party--Manchus and Hungarians--Visit to the Imperial Tombs--A magnificent arch--The Great Ancestor-- Outbreak of cholera--Dinner with the Russian Resident-- Russian hospitality--Return journey to the station-- An adventurous drive--Across country--Chunchuses--Safe arrival at the station 88 V PORT ARTHUR, DALNY, NIU-CHWANG, TIEN-TSIN Chinese agriculture--Friendliness between Russians and Chinese--Rebuilding a bridge at Liaoyang--Difficulties of crossing--Arrival at Port Arthur--The staff at Port Arthur-- Essentially a military port--Dalny--Niu-chwang--Official journal description--Trade--Niu-chwang a real Chinese town-- Description--Future of Niu-chwang--The Catholic Mission-- Official transfer of the railway to the Chinese Governor-General of Manchuria--The famous Chinese wall-- Hankan-chang--Dinner with the English Commander-- Li Hung-Chang--His weakness for speculation--Taku-- Tien-tsin--The home of the Progressive Party--The Boxer rising, 1900--Drawing near Pekin--Wonderful sunset--First Impressions 119 VI PEKIN I: Gloomy arrival--The first disappointment--Incoherent impressions of the following day--Yamen of the Legation --How the city appeared on my round of exploration. II: Appreciations after the first month's stay-- Contradictions of the Yellow metropolis--Plan and outline --Light and shadow. III: Sights of Pekin--Chinese, Tartar, Imperial, Purple, Inner, and Sacred cities--Winter and Summer Palaces-- Neighbourhood and western hills--Pagodas--Temples-- Shrines--Bell and Drum Towers--Chinese city--Commercial life and shops--Pei-tang--International quarter of Legations 141 VII THE DOWAGER EMPRESS AND THE EMPEROR OF CHINA AT THE SUMMER PALACE Pekin in the early morning--En route to the Summer Palace --Varied modes of locomotion--On the highway--Prince Ching, Minister of Foreign Affairs--The pageant of the Dragon--The Imperial residence--Princes and mandarins--The splendour of the Court--Picturesque uniforms and artistic decorations--Her Majesty the Empress Regent--A striking personality--The Manchu fashions--Reception of the diplomatic body--The doyen's complimentary speech, and the Regent's sarcastic answer--The Emperor--The wonderland of the state banquet of hundred dainties--Supper at the Pei-tang Orphanage 175 VIII KOREA OF BYGONE DAYS AND ON THE EVE OF THE WAR