Glimpses of the past and present--Geographical features-- Topography--Soil--Mineral Wealth--Mountains and valleys-- Rivers and bays--Climate and natural advantages--The flora and fauna--Minerals--Ethnological--The Korean race: Its origin--Physical and moral characteristics--The ancient Korea--Early myth of the land--First history--Foundation of the present dynasty--Chinese policy--Internal troubles-- Home and foreign affairs--The administration of the country --The defence--Justice--Torture--The criminal court--Public education--Examination system--Language--The present dynasty --The Emperor--Tai-Wen-Kun--The Royal Prince--Social and public existence--Daily life--The role of men and women-- Korean children--Marriage--General occupations--Agriculture --Trades--Domestic routine--Spinning--Weaving--Sewing-- Ironing--Cooking--Recreations--Music--Theatricals--Singing --National dances--Old customs--Dwellings--Food--Dress-- Games--Sports--The awakening of Korea--International treaties--Commerce and shipping--Mining concessions-- Means of locomotion--Pedlars' Guild--Railways--Electric tramways--Changes in the last quarter of a century--Korea's open ports--Foreign influences--Antagonistic movements-- Apathy and fermentation--Puzzles and problems of the present--Korea's future 189 IX SEOUL, THE CAPITAL OF KOREA Late arrival--Moonlight impressions--General effects-- A fairy city--The dawn--Military display--The Korean sons of Mars--My first walk through the town--Street life--Shops and booths--A battle-royal--The Emperor's commemoration hall--The old palace yard--Korean vehicles--Servants and liveries--A noble wedding--Quaint customs--The dowry-- Korean T. Atkins--Native school--Master and pupils-- The R.C. Mission--The new cathedral--Sunset--Barracks-- Toy hussars--Canine street police--Faithful guardians-- Glorious evening--Princely funeral--The catafalques and cortege--_Danse macabre_--Some reflections 240 X THE EMPEROR OF KOREA AT THE NEW PALACE The capital in a state of revolution--Imperial invitation --My sedan-chairs--The little suite of _Kisos_ and _Mapus_ --The New Palace--An incoherent _tout ensemble_--Court dignitaries--Elaborate uniforms--The Imperial apartments-- Court etiquette--The Emperor--A thousand questions-- The Crown Prince--State robes--The chief eunuch--Farewell-- Y.-Yung-Yk the favourite 263 XI TOKIO