_Modern Jewelry._--So far we have gone over the progress and results of
the jeweller's art. We have now to speak of the production of jewelry as
a modern art industry, in which large numbers of men and women are
employed in the larger cities of Europe. Paris, Vienna, London and
Birmingham are the most important centres. An illustration of the
manufacture as carried on in London and Birmingham will be sufficient to
give an insight into the technique and artistic manipulation of this
branch of art industry; but, by way of contrast, it may be interesting
to give in the first place a description of the native working jeweller
of Hindustan.
He travels very much after the fashion of a tinker in England; his
budget contains tools, materials, fire pots, and all the requisites of
his handicraft. The gold to be used is generally supplied by the
patron or employer, and is frequently in gold coin, which the
travelling jeweller undertakes to convert into the ornaments required.
He squats down in the corner of a courtyard, or under cover of a
veranda, lights his fire, cuts up the gold pieces entrusted to him,
hammers, cuts, shapes, drills, solders with the blow-pipe, files,
scrapes and burnishes until he has produced the desired effect. If he
has stones to set or coloured enamels to introduce, he never seems to
make a mistake; his instinct for harmony of colour, like that of his
brother craftsman the weaver, is as unerring as that of the bird in
the construction of its nest. Whether the materials are common or rich
and rare, he invariably does the very best possible with them,
according to native ideas of beauty in design and combination. It is
only when he is interfered with by European dictation that he ever
vulgarizes his art or makes a mistake. The result may appear rude in
its finish, but the design and the thought are invariably right. We
thus see how a trade in the working of which the "plant" is so simple
and wants are so readily met could spread itself, as in years past it
did at Clerkenwell and at Birmingham before gigantic factories were
invented for producing everything under the sun.
It is impossible to find any date at which the systematic production of
jewelry was introduced into England. Probably the Clerkenwell trade
dates its origin from the revocation of the edict of Nantes, as the
skilled artisans in the jewelry, clock and watch, and trinket trades
appear to have been descendants of the emigrant Huguenots. The
Birmingham trade would appear to have had its origin in the skill to
which the workers in fine steel had attained towards the middle and end
of the 18th century, a branch of industry which collapsed after the
French Revolution.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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