Modern jewelry may be classified under three heads: (1) objects in
which gems and stones form the principal portions, and in which the
work in silver, platinum or gold is really only a means for carrying
out the design by fixing the gems or stones in the position arranged
by the designer, the metal employed being visible only as a setting;
(2) when gold work plays an important part in the development of the
design, being itself ornamented by engraving (now rarely used) or
enamelling or both, the stones and gems being arranged in
subordination to the gold work in such positions as to give a
decorative effect to the whole; (3) when gold or other metal is alone
used, the design being wrought out by hammering in repoussé, casting,
engraving, chasing or by the addition of filigree work (see FILIGREE),
or when the surfaces are left absolutely plain but polished and highly
finished.
Of course the most ancient and primitive methods are those wholly
dependent upon the craft of the workman; but gradually various
ingenious processes were invented, by which greater accuracy in the
portions to be repeated in a design could be produced with certainty
and economy: hence the various methods of stamping used in the
production of hand-made jewelry, which are in themselves as much
mechanical in relation to the end in view as if the whole object were
stamped out at a blow, twisted into its proper position as regards the
detail, or the various stamped portions fitted into each other for the
mechanical completion of the work. It is therefore rather difficult to
draw an absolute line between hand-made and machine-made jewelry,
except in extreme cases of hand-made, when everything is worked, so to
speak, from the solid, or of machine-made, when the hand has only to
give the ornament a few touches of a tool, or fit the parts together
if of more than one piece.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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