England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
"The motor has slowed down from seventy miles an hour to fifty miles an
hour. We are passing a point of great historic interest." That is
sight-seeing in Europe for the American tourist according to one of their
own humorists. I have had many opportunities to observe the truth on which
that sarcasm is based. Take Milton's Cottage for an instance. I had walked
there from Chorley Wood one spring afternoon, and was enjoying idly the
blooms in the little garden, when a motor rushed up, disgorged a party of
hurried tourists, of which the man member had a guide-book. "Is this
Milton's Cottage?" It was: so they entered. "Is this really Milton's chair?
Sure?" It was. So they all sat on it solemnly in turn. Within five minutes
their chariot of petrol had wrapped them up again, and they were rushing
over the face of England to see some shrine of the Pilgrim Fathers.
[Illustration: BROAD STREET, OXFORD, LOOKING WEST]
But we have rambled from Oxford, which is, by the way, much cursed of the
rushing tourist, who has a plan for "doing" it in an hour, and gallops from
the Bodleian to Shelley's Tomb, and Addison's Walk, the Old Wall, the Tower
of St. Michael's, and is away in a cloud of dust, without having gained the
barest hint of the subtle persuasive charm of Oxford; without a thought of
seeing St. Mary's Tower afloat in the moonlight; of hearing the choir of
Magdalen; of drowsing an afternoon under the elms; or of seeking, with all
due reverence and modesty, to gain an entrance to some of those august
companies of Oxford--of undergraduates dreaming their exalted young dreams,
of dons musing their deep thoughts.
I own to it that I feel it difficult to write of Oxford, though, alas! I am
able to write with facility of many places visited and things experienced.
There is something of rebuke towards quick generalisations and easy
judgments in the atmosphere of the place. I have been to Oxford many times.
My very first dinner in England was with the Fellows of All Souls, a feast
of solemn yet cheerful splendour in four rooms, one for the dinner itself,
yet another for dessert, another for coffee, and finally, another for
tobacco. Another time I was at Oxford to lecture to a gathering of dons and
undergraduates on social problems in Australia; yet another time to prove
that the young athletes of the University were conquerable at _epée_
fencing. But never have I got over a first awe of the place. To attempt to
probe to its soul seems an impertinence. Oxford has an atmosphere of the
Round Table.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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