England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
The view from the bridge over the Serpentine has an extraordinary
nobleness, and it has often seemed to me that the Londoner, twitted
with his low standard, may point to it with every confidence. In all
the town-scenery of Europe there can be few things so fine; the only
reproach it is open to is that it begs the question by seeming—in spite
of its being the pride of five millions of people—not to belong to a
town at all. The towers of Notre Dame, as they rise in Paris from the
island that divides the Seine, present themselves no more impressively
than those of Westminster as you see them looking doubly far beyond
the shining stretch of Hyde Park water. Equally delectable is the large
river-like manner in which the Serpentine opens away between its wooded
shores. Just after you have crossed the bridge (whose very banisters,
old and ornamental, of yellowish-brown stone, I am particularly fond
of), you enjoy on your left, through the gate of Kensington Gardens as
you go towards Bayswater, an altogether enchanting vista—a foot-path
over the grass, which loses itself beneath the scattered oaks and elms
exactly as if the place were a “chase.” There could be nothing less
like London in general than this particular morsel, and yet it takes
London, of all cities, to give you such an impression of the country.
IV
It takes London to put you in the way of a purely rustic walk from
Notting Hill to Whitehall. You may traverse this immense distance—a
most comprehensive diagonal—altogether on soft, fine turf, amid the
song of birds, the bleat of lambs, the ripple of ponds, the rustle of
admirable trees. Frequently have I wished that, for the sake of such
a daily luxury and of exercise made romantic, I were a Government
clerk living, in snug domestic conditions, in a Pembridge villa,—let
me suppose,—and having my matutinal desk in Westminster. I should turn
into Kensington Gardens at their northwest limit, and I should have
my choice of a hundred pleasant paths to the gates of Hyde Park. In
Hyde Park I should follow the water-side, or the Row, or any other
fancy of the occasion; liking best, perhaps, after all, the Row in
its morning mood, with the mist hanging over the dark-red course, and
the scattered early riders taking an identity as the soundless gallop
brings them nearer. I am free to admit that in the Season, at the
conventional hours, the Row becomes a weariness (save perhaps just
for a glimpse once a year, to remind one’s self how much it is like
Du Maurier); the preoccupied citizen eschews it and leaves it for the
most part to the gaping barbarian. I speak of it now from the point of
view of the pedestrian; but for the rider as well it is at its best
when he passes either too early or too late. Then, if he be not bent
on comparing it to its disadvantage with the bluer and boskier alleys
of the Bois de Boulogne, it will not be spoiled by the fact that, with
its surface that looks like tan, its barriers like those of the ring on
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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