England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
which the clown stands to hold up the hoop to the young lady, its empty
benches and chairs, its occasional orange-peel, its mounted policemen
patrolling at intervals like expectant supernumeraries, it offers
points of real contact with a circus whose lamps are out. The sky that
bends over it is frequently not a bad imitation of the dingy tent of
such an establishment. The ghosts of past cavalcades seem to haunt the
foggy arena, and somehow they are better company than the mashers and
elongated beauties of current seasons. It is not without interest to
remember that most of the salient figures of English society during
the present century—and English society means, or rather has hitherto
meant, in a large degree, English history—have bobbed in the saddle
between Apsley House and Queen’s Gate. You may call the roll if you
care to, and the air will be thick with dumb voices and dead names,
like that of some Roman amphitheatre.
It is doubtless a signal proof of being a London-lover _quand même_
that one should undertake an apology for so bungled an attempt at
a great public place as Hyde Park Corner. It is certain that the
improvements and embellishments recently enacted there have only served
to call further attention to the poverty of the elements and to the
fact that this poverty is terribly illustrative of general conditions.
The place is the beating heart of the great West End, yet its main
features are a shabby, stuccoed hospital, the low park-gates, in their
neat but unimposing frame, the drawing-room windows of Apsley House and
of the commonplace frontages on the little terrace beside it; to which
must be added, of course, the only item in the whole prospect that is
in the least monumental—the arch spanning the private road beside the
gardens of Buckingham Palace. This structure is now bereaved of the
rueful effigy which used to surmount it—the Iron Duke in the guise of
a tin soldier—and has not been enriched by the transaction as much as
might have been expected.[1] There is a fine view of Piccadilly and
Knightsbridge, and of the noble mansions, as the house-agents call
them, of Grosvenor Place, together with a sense of generous space
beyond the vulgar little railing of the Green Park; but, except for
the impression that there would be room for something better, there is
nothing in all this that speaks to the imagination: almost as much as
the grimy desert of Trafalgar Square the prospect conveys the idea of
an opportunity wasted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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