England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
None the less has it on a fine day in spring an expressiveness of
which I shall not pretend to explain the source further than by saying
that the flood of life and luxury is immeasurably great there. The
edifices are mean, but the social stream itself is monumental, and to
an observer not purely stolid there is more excitement and suggestion
than I can give a reason for in the long, distributed waves of traffic,
with the steady policemen marking their rhythm, which roll together
and apart for so many hours. Then the great, dim city becomes bright
and kind, the pall of smoke turns into a veil of haze carelessly
worn, the air is coloured and almost scented by the presence of the
biggest society in the world, and most of the things that meet the
eye—or perhaps I should say more of them, for the most in London is,
no doubt, ever the realm of the dingy—present themselves as “well
appointed.” Everything shines more or less, from the window-panes
to the dog-collars. So it all looks, with its myriad variations and
qualifications, to one who surveys it over the apron of a hansom, while
that vehicle of vantage, better than any box at the opera, spurts and
slackens with the current.
[Illustration: IN THE GREEN PARK]
It is not in a hansom, however, that we have figured our punctual young
man, whom we must not desert as he fares to the southeast, and who has
only to cross Hyde Park Corner to find his way all grassy again. I have
a weakness for the convenient, familiar, treeless, or almost treeless,
expanse of the Green Park and the friendly part it plays as a kind
of encouragement to Piccadilly. I am so fond of Piccadilly that I am
grateful to any one or anything that does it a service, and nothing is
more worthy of appreciation than the southward look it is permitted to
enjoy just after it passes Devonshire House—a sweep of horizon which
it would be difficult to match among other haunts of men, and thanks
to which, of a summer’s day, you may spy, beyond the browsed pastures
of the foreground and middle distance, beyond the cold chimneys of
Buckingham Palace and the towers of Westminster and the swarming
river-side and all the southern parishes, the hard modern twinkle of
the roof of the Crystal Palace.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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