England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
The way that with her magnificent opportunity London has neglected
to achieve a river-front is of course the best possible proof that
she has rarely, in the past, been in the architectural mood which at
present shows somewhat inexpensive signs of settling upon her. Here
and there a fine fragment apologises for the failure which it doesn’t
remedy. Somerset House stands up higher perhaps than anything else on
its granite pedestal, and the palace of Westminster reclines—it can
hardly be said to stand—on the big parliamentary bench of its terrace.
The Embankment, which is admirable if not particularly interesting,
does what it can, and the mannered houses of Chelsea stare across
at Battersea Park like eighteenth-century ladies surveying a horrid
wilderness. On the other hand, the Charing Cross railway-station,
placed where it is, is a national crime; Milbank prison is a worse
act of violence than any it was erected to punish, and the water-side
generally a shameless renunciation of effect. We acknowledge, however,
that its very cynicism is expressive; so that if one were to choose
again—short of there being a London Louvre—between the usual English
irresponsibility in such matters and some particular flight of
conscience, one would perhaps do as well to let the case stand. We know
what it is, the stretch from Chelsea to Wapping, but we know not what
it might be. It doesn’t prevent my being always more or less thrilled,
of a summer afternoon, by the journey on a penny-steamer to Greenwich.
[Illustration: THE TERRACE, RICHMOND]
VIII
But why do I talk of Greenwich and remind myself of one of the
unexecuted vignettes with which it had been my plan that these
desultory and, I fear, somewhat incoherent remarks should be studded?
They will present to the reader no vignettes but those which the artist
who has kindly consented to associate himself with my vagaries may be
so good as to bestow upon them. Why should I speak of Hampstead, as the
question of summer afternoons just threatened to lead me to do after I
should have exhausted the subject of Greenwich, which I may not even
touch? Why should I be so arbitrary when I have cheated myself out
of the space privately intended for a series of vivid and ingenious
sketches of the particular physiognomy of the respective quarters of
the town? I had dreamed of doing them all, with their idiosyncrasies
and the signs by which you shall know them. It is my pleasure to have
learned these signs—a deeply interesting branch of observation—but I
must renounce the display of my lore.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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