England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
of the sights in which it is the fashion to be “disappointed;” a fact
explained in a great measure by the absence of a formal approach to
the house, which shows its low, grey front to every trudger on the
high-road. But the charm of the spot is so much less that of grandeur
than that of melancholy, that it is rather deepened than diminished
by this attitude of obvious survival and decay. And for that matter,
when you have entered the steep little outer court through the huge
thickness of the low gateway, the present seems effectually walled out
and the past walled in, even as a dead man in a sepulchre. It is very
dead, of a fine June morning, the genius of Haddon Hall; and the silent
courts and chambers, with their hues of ashen grey and faded brown,
seem as time-bleached as the dry bones of any mouldering mortality. The
comparison is odd, but Haddon Hall reminded me perversely of some of
the larger houses at Pompeii. The private life of the past is revealed
in each case with very much the same distinctness and on a scale small
enough not to stagger the imagination. This old dwelling indeed has
so little of the mass and expanse of the classic feudal castle that
it almost suggests one of those miniature models of great buildings
which lurk in dusty corners of museums. But it is large enough to be
delectably complete and to contain an infinite store of the poetry of
grass-grown courts looked into by wide, jutting windows and climbed
out of by crooked stone stairways mounting against the walls to little
high-placed doors. The “tone” of Haddon Hall, of all its walls and
towers and stonework, is the grey of unpolished silver, and the reader
who has been in England need hardly be reminded of the sweet accord—to
eye and mind alike—existing between all stony surfaces covered with
the pale corrosions of time and the deep living green of the strong
ivy which seems to feed on their slow decay. Of this effect and of a
hundred others—from those that belong to low-browed, stone-paved empty
rooms where life was warm and atmospheres thick, to those one may note
where the dark tower stairway emerges at last, on a level with the
highest beech-tops, against the cracked and sun-baked parapet which
flaunted the castle standard over the castle woods—of every form of sad
desuetude and picturesque decay Haddon Hall contains some delightful
example. Its finest point is undoubtedly a certain court from which
a stately flight of steps ascends to the terrace where that daughter
of the Vernons whom I have mentioned took such happy thought for
our requiring, as the phrase is, a reference. These steps, with the
terrace, its balustrade topped with great ivy-muffled knobs of stone
and its high background of massed woods, form the ideal _mise en scène_
for portions of Shakespeare’s comedies. “It’s exactly Elizabethan,”
said my companion. Here the Countess Olivia may have listened to the
fantastic Malvolio, or Beatrix, superbest of flirts, have come to
summon Benedick to dinner.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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