England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
I continued to sacrifice for the rest of the day; it didn’t seem to me
a sentient thing, as yet, to enquire into the means of getting away.
My curiosity must indeed have languished, for I found myself on the
morrow in the slowest of Sunday trains, pottering up to London with an
interruptedness which might have been tedious without the conversation
of an old gentleman who shared the carriage with me and to whom my
alien as well as comparatively youthful character had betrayed itself.
He instructed me as to the sights of London and impressed upon me
that nothing was more worthy of my attention than the great cathedral
of St. Paul. “Have you seen St. Peter’s in Rome? St. Peter’s is more
highly embellished, you know; but you may depend upon it that St.
Paul’s is the better building of the two.” The impression I began
with speaking of was, strictly, that of the drive from Euston, after
dark, to Morley’s Hotel in Trafalgar Square. It was not lovely—it was
in fact rather horrible; but as I move again through dusky, tortuous
miles, in the greasy four-wheeler to which my luggage had compelled me
to commit myself, I recognise the first step in an initiation of which
the subsequent stages were to abound in pleasant things. It is a kind
of humiliation in a great city not to know where you are going, and
Morley’s Hotel was then, to my imagination, only a vague ruddy spot
in the general immensity. The immensity was the great fact, and that
was a charm; the miles of housetops and viaducts, the complication
of junctions and signals through which the train made its way to the
station had already given me the scale. The weather had turned to
wet, and we went deeper and deeper into the Sunday night. The sheep in
the fields, on the way from Liverpool, had shown in their demeanour a
certain consciousness of the day; but this momentous cab-drive was an
introduction to the rigidities of custom. The low black houses were
as inanimate as so many rows of coal-scuttles, save where at frequent
corners, from a gin-shop, there was a flare of light more brutal still
than the darkness. The custom of gin—that was equally rigid, and in
this first impression the public-houses counted for much.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account