England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
horse—is a portrait from the Brignole palace at Genoa; a beautiful
noble matron in black, with her little son and heir. The last Vandycks
I had seen were the noble company this lady had left behind her in the
Genoese palace, and as I looked at her I thought of her mighty change
of circumstance. Here she sits in the mild light of midmost England;
there you could almost fancy her blinking in the great glare sent up
from the Mediterranean. Intensity for intensity—intensity of situation
constituted—I hardly know which to choose.
Oxford, 1872.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
NORTH DEVON
For those fanciful observers to whom broad England means chiefly the
perfection of the rural picturesque, Devonshire means the perfection of
England. I, at least, had so complacently taken for granted here all
the characteristic graces of English scenery, had built so boldly on
their rank orthodoxy, that before we fairly crossed the border I had
begun to look impatiently from the carriage window for the veritable
landscape in water-colours. Devonshire meets you promptly in all its
purity, for the course of ten minutes you have been able to glance
down the green vista of a dozen Devonshire lanes. On huge embankments
of moss and turf, smothered in wild flowers and embroidered with the
finest lacework of trailing ground-ivy, rise solid walls of flowering
thorn and glistening holly and golden broom, and more strong, homely
shrubs than I can name, and toss their blooming tangle to a sky which
seems to look down between them, in places, from but a dozen inches
of blue. They are oversown with lovely little flowers with names as
delicate as their petals of gold and silver and azure—bird’s-eye and
king’s-finger and wandering-sailor—and their soil, a superb dark red,
turns in spots so nearly to crimson that you almost fancy it some
fantastic compound purchased at the chemist’s and scattered there
for ornament. The mingled reflection of this rich-hued earth and the
dim green light which filters through the hedge is a masterpiece of
produced beauty. A Devonshire cottage is no less striking an outcome of
the ages and the seasons and the manners. Crushed beneath its burden
of thatch, coated with a rough white stucco of a tone to delight a
painter, nestling in deep foliage and garnished at doorstep and wayside
with various forms of chubby infancy, it seems to have been stationed
there for no more obvious purpose than to keep a promise to your fancy,
though it covers, I suppose, not a little of the sordid side of life
which the fancy likes to slur over.
[Illustration: A DEVONSHIRE LANE]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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