England -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- England
With human needs in general Warwick Castle may be in no great accord,
but few places are more gratifying to the sentimental tourist. It is
the only great residence he may have coveted as a home. The fire that
we heard so much of last winter in America appears to have consumed but
an inconsiderable and easily spared portion of the house, and the great
towers rise over the great trees and the town with the same grand air
as before. Picturesquely, Warwick gains from not being sequestered,
after the common fashion, in acres of park. The village street winds
about the garden walls, though its hum expires before it has had time
to scale them. There can be no better example of the way in which stone
walls, if they do not of necessity make a prison, may on occasions make
a palace, than the prodigious privacy maintained thus about a mansion
whose windows and towers form the main feature of a bustling town. At
Warwick the past joins hands so stoutly with the present that you can
hardly say where one begins and the other ends, and you rather miss
the various crannies and gaps of what I just now called the Italian
shabbiness of Haddon. There is a Cæsar’s tower and a Guy’s tower and
half a dozen more, but they are so well-conditioned in their ponderous
antiquity that you are at loss whether to consider them parts of an
old house revived or of a new house picturesquely superannuated. Such
as they are, however, plunging into the grassed and gravelled courts
from which their battlements look really feudal, and into gardens
large enough for all delight and too small, as they should be, to be
amazing; and with ranges between them of great apartments at whose
hugely recessed windows you may turn from Vandyck and Rembrandt to
glance down the cliff-like pile into the Avon, washing the base like
a lordly moat, with its bridge, and its trees and its memories, they
mark the very model of a great hereditary dwelling—one which amply
satisfies the imagination without irritating the democratic conscience.
The pictures at Warwick reminded me afresh of an old conclusion on this
matter; that the best fortune for good pictures is not to be crowded
into public collections—not even into the relative privacy of Salons
Carrés and Tribunes—but to hang in largely-spaced half-dozens on the
walls of fine houses. Here the historical atmosphere, as one may call
it, is almost a compensation for the often imperfect light. If this
be true of most pictures it is especially so of the works of Vandyck,
whom you think of, wherever you may find him, as having, with that
thorough good-breeding which is the stamp of his manner, taken account
in his painting of the local conditions and predestined his picture to
just the spot where it hangs. This is in fact an illusion as regards
the Vandycks at Warwick, for none of them represent members of the
house. The very finest perhaps after the great melancholy, picturesque
Charles I—death, or at least the presentiment of death on the pale
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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