When most of the members of the _tertulia_ have withdrawn either to
take their afternoon siesta or resume their avocations, Unamuno sets
out for a long walk into the country, accompanied in winter by the few
who are willing to brave the icy winds that sweep over the treeless
tableland from the snow-clad summits of the sierras. During the walk
the conversation is continued without intermission, the party halting
to form a circle round the speaker whenever a point arises that demands
special emphasis or elucidation. As these points arise at frequent
intervals, a spectacle that must often arrest the wondering gaze of the
peasant hurrying on his mule along the high road to Salamanca on wintry
afternoons, is that of a group of individuals muffled in greatcoats and
waterproofs, with collars raised and hat-brims pulled down in a vain
endeavour to protect tingling ears from the lashing flaws of rain and
sleet, gathered round a robust, coatless figure, with double-breasted
blue jacket thrown open to the blast, whose concentration upon the
subject-matter of his discourse renders him apparently oblivious of the
inclemency of the elements and the physical discomfort of his auditors.
The point having been elucidated, the party struggles on again in the
teeth of the gale, some of its weaker members perhaps hoping that no
fresh dialectical crisis will arise until further exercise has restored
the benumbed circulation.
On days of storm or heavy rain, when faint-hearted disciples shrink
from the exposure of the open country, the afternoon diversion takes
the form of a promenade beneath the arcades of the Plaza Mayor, perhaps
the finest square of its kind in Spain, into which towards evening
most of the population of the city seems to empty itself. The crowd
surges round in two opposing streams, for a time-honoured custom
demands that the men shall proceed in one direction and the women
in another. Unamuno diversifies the monotony of this promenade by a
curious amusement. Having abstracted the crumb from his luncheon roll
and kneaded it up into a kind of snowball, he manufactures therefrom a
supply of pellets, and these, during the course of his walk, he propels
by means of a dexterous flick of the middle finger with deadly accuracy
at selected members of the crowd. Whether the principle of selection
is based upon friendly interest or personal dislike, or whether
indeed there is any principle at all, is a question that must be left
undetermined.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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