American essays -- 19th century; Literature -- History and criticism
ignorance; but the criticism that develops in the mind a more subtle
quality of apprehension and discernment is the criticism that creates the
intellectual atmosphere of the age.
HUMORS OF GASTRONOMY
“There does not, at this blessed moment, breathe on the earth’s surface a
human being that willna prefer eating and drinking to all ither pleasures
o’ body or soul.” So speaks the Ettrick Shepherd, in the fulness of his
content, contemplating with moist eyes the groaning supper-table, laden
with a comfortable array of solid viands; after which fair and frank
expression of his views we are somewhat pained to hear him denouncing
in no measured terms “the awful and fearsome vice o’ gluttony,” as
evidenced occasionally in women. His companions, too, those magnificent
fellow-feeders, have a great many severe things to say about gudewives
who betray a weakness for roasted pork, or an unfeminine solicitude for
gravy; and Mr. Timothy Tickler unhesitatingly affirms that such a one,
“eating for the sake of eating, and not for mere nourishment, is, in
fact, the grossest of sensualists, and at each mouthful virtually breaks
all ten of the commandments.” This is the language of an ascetic rather
than of a _bon vivant_, but we are in some measure reassured when the
same Mr. Tickler confesses, a little later, that, although roast goose
always disagrees with him, yet he never refuses it, believing that
to purchase pleasure by a certain degree of pain is true philosophy;
whereupon the Shepherd, not to be outdone, gives it as his unreserved
opinion that, in winter-time at least, “eating for eating’s sake, and in
oblivion o’ its feenal cause, is the most sacred o’ household duties.”
From these somewhat inharmonious sentiments we reluctantly infer that
gluttony is a vice—or a virtue—for man only, and that woman’s part in
the programme is purely that of a ministering angel. Adam was made to
eat, and Eve to cook for him, although, even in this humble sphere, she
and her daughters have been doomed to rank second in command. Excellent
in all things, but supreme in none, they have never yet scaled the
dazzling heights of culinary fame. The records of antiquity make no
mention of their skill; the middle ages grant them neither praise nor
honor; and even as late as Dr. Johnson’s day they labored hard for scanty
recognition. It is very painful to hear the great sage speaking lightly
of our grandmother’s oracle, Mrs. Glasse, and declaring with robust
contempt that women were fit to spin, but not to write a book of cookery.
Yet for how many years had they modestly held their peace; profiting,
doubtless, in many a roomy kitchen and in many a well-stocked buttery by
the words of wisdom which vainglorious men let fall; and only now and
then giving help and counsel to one another by means of little private
recipe-books, which were circulated among a few noble families, and were
considered as their own exclusive property and pride.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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