American essays -- 19th century; Literature -- History and criticism
Opulence and a taste for display, upon the one side, and the natural
conservatism of the great Saxon stock, upon the other, fought the battle
of the table from the days of the Black Prince down to those of Anthony
Trollope, and will, in all probability, fight it to the end. “A cod’s
head for fourpence, and nine shillings’ worth of condiments to serve with
it,” was the favorite sarcasm which greeted the growing extravagance of
the rich middle classes. Those costly “subtleties” imported from French
kitchens in the fifteenth century met with a sturdy opposition from
British free-men, who, even while they gaped and marveled, resented such
bewildering innovations. The pelican sheltering her young, and Saint
Catherine, book in hand, disputing with the doctors, which figured among
the dishes at the coronation of Henry V.; the hundred and four “dressed”
peacocks, trailing their plumes gorgeously over the table at the
consecration of Archbishop Neville, affronted more than one beef-eating
gentleman, and exasperated more than one porridge-eating churl. From
France, too, came certain heresies regarding the fitness of food which
Englishmen had for centuries devoured and digested. Queen Elizabeth dined
upon whale; Cardinal Wolsey, who was something of an epicure, and who
first taught us that strawberries and cream were intended by a beneficent
nature to set off each other’s merits, did not disdain to have a young
porpoise served up at one of his banquets. Fish soup was a delicacy, and
we are even assured by antiquarians that the grampus, or sea-wolf, was
freely eaten by our strong-stomached ancestors.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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