American essays -- 19th century; Literature -- History and criticism
All of Savarin’s apothegms evince the same frank and warm-hearted regard
for the welfare of others; the same unremitting anxiety to teach them
what to eat and how to eat it. He entreats us never to forget that, when
we have invited a man to dine, we have, for a short time at least, his
happiness in our hands. The dinner table, he reminds us, is the only
place where men are not hopelessly bored for the first hour, and during
that hour it is our privilege to make them enamored of life. A cook is,
in his eyes, a true scientist, with mighty capacities for good and evil.
He believes, with Baudelaire, that such a one should have the soul of a
poet, and—like the too fastidious Parisian, who declared that between
Mme. du Deffand’s _chef_ and the Marquise de Brinvilliers “there was only
the difference of intention”—Savarin has no words of reproach strong
enough for those who debase and shame their noble calling. He is prompt
to recognize the exigencies of a slender purse, and unwearying in his
efforts to provide _menus_ fitted to its limitations; but his notions
of economy are somewhat like those of the little French princess, who
said that rather than starve she would live on bread and cheese. The
famous _omelette au thon_, for instance, with all its air of pastoral
simplicity, contains the roes of two carp, a piece of tunny, an eschalot,
twelve eggs, and a number of other ingredients which would hardly
recommend it to a poor country parsonage. As for the Abbé Chevrier’s
spinach, which was warmed up with butter for seven days before it reached
the acme of delicacy, we can only wonder at the admirable patience of
the Abbé’s cook, who would return seven times with unremitting industry
to the consideration of a single dish.
It will be observed, however, how many gastronomical triumphs we owe to
clerical genius, or to the researches of the true philosopher. Lord Bacon
thought it no shame to bend his mighty mind to kitchen problems, and Dr.
Nowel, the learned and pious dean of St. Paul’s, was rightfully proud
of the bottled beer which he first gave to his astonished and grateful
country. The earliest list of recipes in England was the work of an
archbishop. The Jesuits in the seventeenth century carried the turkey
from its native haunts, and introduced it to the best French society, who
received it with the rapture it deserved. The famous _mayonnaise_ is not
the only delicacy which Richelieu bequeathed to the world; Talleyrand
devoted one hour out of every busy day to the exclusive companionship of
his cook; and the Regent Orleans was pleased to give his own name to the
bread of his own baking.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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