While lying in the harbor of Singapore, the crew of the _New York_ had the opportunity of witnessing a total eclipse of the sun. Astronomers from various nations had come to take observations and data for the official chronological records of their respective governments. It was an amusing sight to watch the natives as the eclipse passed over the sun; their superstition led them to believe that the end of the world had come, and their utterance and performance were ridiculous. From Singapore our ship steamed into the China Sea for ports in the Philippine Islands. V. Hong Kong, China, and the Denizens of the Underworld A Trip to Canton――“Happy Valley” the “Epsom Downs” of the Far East――Discovery of an American Actress in an Opium Joint――A “Rough House” in which Guns are Drawn――Moonlight Meditations on the Quarter-deck of the _Rainbow_――Encounter with a Victim of Brain Storm. I had made numerous trips across the China Sea, and had been up and down the Chinese coast from Taku to Saigon several times, on board the United States Cruiser _New York_, during the Boxer campaign. On this particular trip, however, I was serving on board the United States Flagship _Rainbow_, in the capacity of orderly to the junior commander of the Asiatic fleet, the late Rear Admiral Wilde. This trip had been looked forward to with great pleasure as our ship was scheduled for dry dock and this meant lots of shore leave for the crew. Leaving Manila we steamed across the China Sea, which required about three days. After the usual quarantine inspections we entered the land-locked harbor and cast anchor near Kowloon, a town on the mainland of China. Hong Kong is situated on Victoria Island and is a British possession; the island rises to an immense altitude on the slope of which, facing Kowloon, spreads the City of Hong Kong. The entrance to the harbor is well fortified and from a light-house on a cliff a powerful light is cast at night for miles over the China Sea. Having visited Hong Kong several times, it was my desire this time to pay a visit to the more typical Chinese City of Canton. So, accompanied by the Japanese steward of the _Rainbow_, I secured passage on the British side-wheeler _Moonlight_. The passengers seemed to represent every nation on earth. There were Bombay and Chinese merchants, American and European tourists, East Indian Sikhs, Japanese waiters, and Chinese sailors. After an all night run on the Pearl River, dawn broke with our eyes fastened on this great Chinese city, Canton. Here years could be spent without learning a great deal about its historical calendar.