Exploits and adventures of a soldier ashore and afloatAdams, William Llewellyn
History
Exploits and adventures of a soldier ashore and afloat
Adams, William Llewellyn
Adams, William Llewellyn; Americans -- Foreign countries; United States. Army -- Military life
Entering through a gate of the old stone wall, we found the only
European hotel in the city, the “Victoria,” where, after having had
breakfast, we engaged two sedan chairs carried by coolies, and sought
the places of interest. The streets are so narrow that two chairs can
just barely pass each other. We visited the ancient pagodas, the
execution ground and block where highbinders are beheaded, the
markets, bazaars, and opium dens, and finally witnessed a Chinese
wedding.
One of the interesting sights of the Pearl River is its floating
population. It is estimated that three million Chinese live in junks
on this river.
I was not at all reluctant to leave this relic of the dark ages for
the more up-to-date city of Hong Kong. We know the nations of the
earth are represented in our New York, but for real cosmopolitanism
the “Queen’s Road” in Hong Kong makes old Broadway look like a street
in a country village.
The principal enterprises of Hong Kong are shipping, the manufacture
of chinaware, silk goods, sedan wood-work, and pyrotechnics. Labor is
very cheap, and, as British imports are entered free of duty, the
living in this city of the far East is very cheap.
Many Hong Kong Chinamen are educated in the English language, have
adopted the customs and manners of the English people, and for
cleverness in business and practical affairs are unexcelled.
A tram-way leads up the mountain-side to the Peak Hotel, from which
you can be conveyed in sedan chairs to the zenith of Victoria Peak. At
the Peak Hotel I met two American prospectors, with whom I played
several games of billiards; these men had spent three years in Sumatra
and were awaiting a liner for “Frisco.” With them I visited Happy
Valley, the Chinese Court, the Dairy Farm, Douglass Castle, Kennedy
Road, the Chinese market, the Royal Naval Canteen, the barracks of the
Welsh Fusileers, the Highlanders, the Scots Guards, and the Sikhs, old
Chinese joss houses, and the famous Traveller’s Inn, where British
bar-maids do the honors.
Horse-racing is the favorite sport in Hong Kong, and the track at
Happy Valley is the Epsom Downs of the Far East. A Derby is a signal
for the suspension of business, and the excitement in the paddock,
grand stand, and along the rail is akin to that at Sheepshead Bay on
the day of the Brooklyn handicap.
The Chinese are born gamblers, whether playing at “fan tan” or picking
the winners on the track. They will carry complete data of a horse:
the distance he can go at his best; the weight he can best carry;
whether fast or slow in starting; and whether a good or bad animal in
mud; all this a Chinaman will study over before placing his money, and
it is usually safe to follow his system.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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