Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling WinesVizetelly, Henry
History
Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling Wines
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine); Sparkling wines; Wine and wine making
Messrs. Lauteren’s cellars for sparkling wines extend mainly under an
old monastery, and comprise a succession of large vaulted galleries
connected by narrow passages with arched entrances. Here are stacked
some 800,000 bottles of wine in varying conditions of maturity. Messrs.
Lauteren bottle their wines in August, instead of fully two months
earlier according to the usual practice, in the belief that the system
they pursue is more conducive to perfect effervescence, besides being
attended with less breakage, owing to the newly-bottled wine escaping
the heat of the summer. All the arrangements at this establishment are
very complete. There is a place for everything, and everything is to be
found in its place. Adjoining the courtyard, where new bottles are
stacked beneath open ornamental sheds, are the tasting-room and the
apartment where the operations of disgorging, dosing, and re-corking are
performed. The liqueur added by the firm to their sparkling wines is
kept in bottle from three to five years before being used. In the
tasting-room we were shown a variety of sparkling hocks and moselles,
the former with all the distinguishing characteristics of fine Rhine
wine, the older samples having gained considerably in softness. A dry
Cabinet specimen submitted to us exhibited a fine bouquet and much
delicacy of flavour. The moselles we found particularly interesting,
made as they were of genuine wines from some of the best vineyards of
the Moselle district.
The largest German sparkling wine establishment is at Hochheim, which,
although, situated on the banks of the Main, and several miles distant
from its confluence with the Rhine, has curiously enough supplied us
with a generic name under which we inconsistently class the entire
produce of the Rhine vineyards. Behind the Hochheim railway station
there rises a long low slope, planted from base to summit with vines,
a portion of which are screened on the north by a plain-looking church
and a weather-stained deanery. The vines thus sheltered yield the famous
Dom Dechanei, the finest Hochheimer known. Some short distance off in a
westerly direction are the extensive premises of the Hochheim Sparkling
Wine Association, whose brands are well known in England. The firm of
Burgeff and Co., whose business the association acquired in 1858 and
subsequently considerably extended, was founded in 1837. At this
establishment all the arrangements are of the most perfect character.
The bottles are cleaned by a machine employing ten persons, and turning
out several thousand bottles a day. All the bottles moreover, before
being used, have their strength tested by an ingenious apparatus which
subjects them to three or four times the pressure they are likely to
undergo when filled with wine. Pumps, bottle-washing machine, and the
revolving casks in which the sugar is dissolved for the liqueur, are all
moved by steam, and the association even manufactures the gas used for
lighting up the establishment.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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