Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling WinesVizetelly, Henry
History
Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling Wines
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine); Sparkling wines; Wine and wine making
Wurzburg, one of the most antiquated and picturesque of German cities,
is noted for its sparkling Franconian wines vintaged partly in the
vineyards that overspread the tall chalk hills which close in around the
quaint old university town. The most famous of these vineyards are the
Leist and the Stein, the first-named sloping downward towards the Main
from the foot of the picturesque Marienberg fort, which, perched on the
summit of a commanding height, dominates the city and forms so
conspicuous an object in all the views of it. The extensive buildings of
the fort not only shield the vines from the winds, but reflect the sun’s
rays upon them, thereby materially conducing to the perfect ripening of
the grapes at a much earlier period than is customary. The Stein
vineyard is situated on the opposite side of the Main, and when viewed
from the picturesque bridge, studded with incongruous colossal
statues--such as Joseph and the Virgin Mary in close proximity to
Charlemagne and Pépin--seems to rise up as an immense rampart behind the
city. Here the river acts as a reflector, throwing back the sun’s rays
on the lower portions of the slope, where the finest wine is naturally
vintaged. An altogether inferior growth is produced on the hill to the
north, known as the Middle Stein, and also in the Harfe vineyard,
situated in the rear of the latter. The prevalent vines in the Würzburg
district are the riesling, the traminer, the elbling, and the rulander,
or pineau gris.
The first sparkling wine establishment at Würzburg was founded in 1842
by Herr Oppmann, the Royal cellar-master, who died in 1866. The position
held by this individual was one of considerable importance, for the King
of Bavaria is the largest wine-grower in his own dominions, and stores
the produce of his vineyards in the famous cellars extending beneath one
of the wings of the deserted Residenz, erected at an epoch when Würzburg
was subject to episcopal rule. These cellars, vaulted in stone, are on a
vast scale, and possibly unequalled in the world. You descend a broad
flight of steps, flanked by ornamental iron balustrades, and encounter
half-way down a miniature tun, guarded by the Bavarian lions posted in a
niche in the wall. Following your guide with lighted candles, you pass
between rows upon rows of capacious casks filled with the wine last
vintaged, and various wines of recent years; large metal
chandeliers--fantastically adorned with innumerable coloured bottles and
glasses, and designed to light up the cellars on festive occasions--here
and there descending from the arched roof. Eventually you arrive at a
gallery where huge casks are poised on massive wooden frames in double
tiers one above the other. These cellars are said to be capable of
holding upwards of 500 casks, but at the time of our visit there were
scarcely half that number, and only a mere fraction of these were filled
with wine. The cellars no longer contain any of that archaic wine
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