Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling WinesVizetelly, Henry
History
Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling Wines
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine); Sparkling wines; Wine and wine making
Ever busy among his vats and presses, barrels and bottles, Perignon
alighted upon a discovery destined to be most important in its results.
He found out the way of making an effervescent wine--a wine that burst
out of the bottle and overflowed the glass, that was twice as dainty to
the taste, and twice as exhilarating in its effects. It was at the close
of the seventeenth century that this discovery was made--when the glory
of the Roi Soleil was on the wane, and with it the splendour of the
Court of Versailles. Louis XIV., for whose especial benefit liqueurs had
been invented, recovered a gleam of his youthful energy as he sipped the
creamy foaming vintage that enlivened his dreary _têtes-à-têtes_ with
the widow of Scarron. It found its chief patrons however, amongst the
bands of gay young roysterers, the future _roues_ of the Regency, whom
the Duc d’Orléans and the Duc de Vendôme had gathered round them, at the
Palais Royal and at Anet. It was at one of the famous _soupers_ d’Anet
that the Marquis de Sillery--who had turned his sword into a
pruning-knife, and applied himself to the cultivation of his paternal
vineyards on the principles inculcated by the celerer of St.
Peter’s--first introduced the sparkling wine bearing his name. The
flower-wreathed bottles, which, at a given signal, a dozen of blooming
young damsels scantily draped in the guise of Bacchanals placed upon the
table, were hailed with rapture, and thenceforth sparkling wine was an
indispensable adjunct at all the _petits soupers_ of the period. In the
highest circles the popping of champagne-corks seemed to ring the knell
of sadness, and the victories of Marlborough were in a measure
compensated for by this happy discovery.
Why the wine foamed and sparkled was a mystery even to the very makers
themselves; for as yet Baume’s aerometer was unknown, and the connection
between sugar and carbonic acid undreamt of. The general belief was that
the degree of effervescence depended upon the time of year at which the
wine was bottled, and that the rising of the sap in the vine had
everything to do with it. Certain wiseacres held that it was influenced
by the age of the moon at the time of bottling; whilst others thought
the effervescence could be best secured by the addition of spirit, alum,
and various nastinesses. It was this belief in the use and efficacy of
drugs that led to a temporary reaction against the wine about 1715, in
which year Dom Perignon departed this life. In his latter days he had
grown blind, but his discriminating taste enabled him to discharge his
duties with unabated efficiency to the end. Many of the tall tapering
glasses invented by him have been emptied to the memory of the old
Benedictine, whose remains repose beneath a black marble slab in the
chancel of the archaic abbey church of Hautvillers.
[Illustration:
THE VINEYARDS AND ABBEY OF HAUTVILLERS. (p. 14)]
[Illustration:
THE ESTABLISHMENT OF MESSRS. CHARLES FARRE & CO., AT HAUTVILLERS.
(p. 15)]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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