Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling WinesVizetelly, Henry
History
Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling Wines
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine); Sparkling wines; Wine and wine making
Meanwhile an entirely new kind of wine, which was to carry the name of
the province producing it to the uttermost corners of the earth, had
been introduced. On the picturesque slopes of the Marne, about fifteen
miles from Reims, and some four or five miles from Epernay, stands the
little hamlet of Hautvillers, which, in pre-revolutionary days, was a
mere dependency upon a spacious abbey dedicated to St. Peter. Here the
worthy monks of the order of St. Benedict had lived in peace and
prosperity for several hundred years, carefully cultivating the acres of
vineland extending around the abbey, and religiously exacting a tithe of
all the other wine pressed in their district. The revenue of the
community thus depending in no small degree upon the vintage, it was
natural that the post of “celerer” should be one of importance. It
happened that about the year 1688 this office was conferred upon a
worthy monk named Perignon. Poets and roasters, we know, are born, and
not made; and the monk in question seems to have been a heaven-born
cellarman, with a strong head and a discriminating palate. The wine
exacted from the neighbouring cultivators was of all qualities--good,
bad, and indifferent; and with the spirit of a true Benedictine, Dom
Perignon hit upon the idea of “marrying” the produce of one vineyard
with that of another. He had noted that one kind of soil imparted
fragrance and another generosity, and discovered that a white wine could
be made from the blackest grapes, which would keep good, instead of
turning yellow and degenerating like the wine obtained from white ones.
Moreover, the happy thought occurred to him that a piece of cork was a
much more suitable stopper for a bottle than the flax dipped in oil
which had heretofore served that purpose.
The white, or, as it was sometimes styled, the grey wine of the
Champagne grew famous, and the manufacture spread throughout the
province, but that of Hautvillers held the predominance. To Dom Perignon
the abbey’s well-stocked cellar was a far cheerfuller place than the
cell. Nothing delighted him more than
“To come down among this brotherhood
Dwelling for ever underground,
Silent, contemplative, round and sound,
Each one old and brown with mould,
But filled to the lips with the ardour of youth,
With the latent power and love of truth,
And with virtues fervent and manifold.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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