Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling WinesVizetelly, Henry
History
Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling Wines
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine); Sparkling wines; Wine and wine making
the Great, which, had he only been successful in, would have secured the
future hero of Fontenoy the coveted dukedom of Courland.
The vineyards of the Côte d’Epernay, south of the Marne, extend eastward
from beyond Boursault, on whose wooded height Madame Clicquot built her
fine château, in which her granddaughter, the Comtesse de Mortemart,
to-day resides. They then follow the course of the river, and after
winding round behind Epernay diverge towards the south-west. The vines
produce only black grapes, and many of the vineyards are of great
antiquity, one at Epernay, known as the Closet, having been bequeathed
under that name six and a half centuries ago to a neighbouring Abbey of
St. Martin. A short drive along the high road leading from Epernay to
Troyes brings us to the village of Pierry cosily nestling amongst groves
of poplars in the valley of the Cubry, with some half-score of châteaux
of the last century belonging to well-to-do wine-growers of the
neighbourhood, screened from the road by umbrageous gardens. Vines mount
the slopes that rise around, the higher summits being crowned with
forest, while here and there some pleasant village shelters itself under
the brow of a lofty hill. Near Pierry many cellars have been excavated
in the chalky soil, to the flints prevalent in which the village is said
to owe its name.
[Illustration]
The entrances to these cellars are closed by iron gateways, and on the
skirts of the vineyards we come upon whole rows of them picturesquely
overgrown with ivy. Early in the last century the wine vintaged in the
Clos St. Pierre, belonging to an abbey of this name at Châlons, acquired
a high reputation through the care bestowed upon it by Brother Jean
Oudart, whose renown almost rivalled that of Dom Perignon himself, and
to-day the Pierry vineyards, producing exclusively black grapes, hold a
high rank among the second-class crûs of the Marne.
Crossing the Sourdon, a little stream which, bubbling up in the midst of
huge rocks in the forest of Epernay, rushes down the hills and mingles
its waters with that of the Cubry, we soon reach Moussy, where the
vineyards, spite of their long pedigree and southern aspect, also rank
as a second crû. Still skirting the vine-clad slopes we come to Vinay,
noted for an ancient grotto--the comfortless abode of some rheumatic
anchorite--and a pretended miraculous spring to which fever-stricken
pilgrims to-day credulously resort. The water may possibly merit its
renown, but the wine here produced is very inferior, due no doubt to the
class of vines, the meunier being the leading variety cultivated. At
Ablois St. Martin, picturesquely perched partway up a slope in the midst
of hills covered with vines and crowned with forest trees, the Côte
d’Epernay ends, and the produce becomes of a choicer character.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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