Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling WinesVizetelly, Henry
History
Facts About Champagne and Other Sparkling Wines
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine); Sparkling wines; Wine and wine making
The Côte d’Avize lies to the south-east, so that we have to retrace our
steps to Pierry and follow the road which there branches off, leaving
the vineyards of Chavot, Monthelon, and Grauves, of no particular note,
on our right hand. We pass through Cuis, where the slopes, planted with
both black and white varieties of vines, are extremely abrupt, and
eventually reach Cramant, one of the grand _premiers crûs_ of the
Champagne. From the vineyards around this picturesque little village,
and extending along the somewhat precipitous Côte de Saran--a prominent
object on which is M. Moët’s handsome château--there is vintaged a wine
from white grapes especially remarkable for lightness and delicacy and
the richness of its bouquet, and an admixture of which is essential to
every first-class champagne _cuvée_.
From Cramant the road runs direct to Avize, a large thriving village,
lying at the foot of vineyard slopes, where numerous champagne firms
have established themselves. Its prosperity dates from the commencement
of the last century, when the Count de Lhery cleared away the remains of
its ancient ramparts, filled up the moat, and planted the ground with
vines, the produce of which was found admirably suited for the sparkling
wines then coming into vogue. To-day the light delicate wine of Avize is
classed, like that of Cramant, as a _premier crû_. It is the same with
the wine of Oger, lying a little to the south, while the neighbouring
growths of Le Mesnil hold a slightly inferior rank. The latter village
and its grey Gothic church lie under the hill in the midst of vines that
almost climb the forest-crowned summit. The stony soil hereabouts is
said to be better adapted to the cultivation of white than of black
grapes, besides which the wines of Le Mesnil are remarkable for their
effervescent properties.
Vertus forms the southern limit of the Côte d’Avize, and the vineyard
slopes subsiding at their base into a broad expanse of fertile fields,
and crested as usual with dense forest, rise up behind the picturesque
old town which the English assailed and partly burnt five centuries ago,
spite of its fortifications, of which to-day a dilapidated gateway alone
remains. The church is ancient and curious, and a few quaint old houses
are here and there met with, notably one with a florid Gothic window
enriched with a moulding of grapes and vine-leaves. The vineyards of
Vertus were originally planted with vines from Burgundy, and in the 14th
century yielded a red wine held in high repute, while later on the
Vertus growths formed the favourite beverage of William III. of England.
To-day the growers find it more profitable to make white instead of red
wine from their crops of black grapes, the former commanding a good
price for conversion into _vin mousseux_, it being in the opinion of
some manufacturers especially valuable for binding a _cuvée_ together.
The wine of Vertus ranks among the second-class champagne crûs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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