Farnham's Travels in the Great Western Prairies, etc., part 2, October 21-December 4, 1839: and De Smet's Oregon Missions and Travels over the Rocky Mountains, 1845-1846Smet, Pierre-Jean de
History
Farnham's Travels in the Great Western Prairies, etc., part 2, October 21-December 4, 1839: and De Smet's Oregon Missions and Travels over the Rocky Mountains, 1845-1846
Smet, Pierre-Jean de
Indians of North America -- West (U.S.); Oregon -- Description and travel; Overland journeys to the Pacific; Rocky Mountains -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- History -- To 1848
Frazer’s River rises between latitudes 55° and 56° north, and after a
course of about one hundred and fifty miles, nearly due south, falls
into the Straits de Fuca, under latitude 49° north. It is so much
obstructed by rapids and falls, as to be of little value for purposes of
navigation.[52] The face of the country about its mouth, and for fifty
miles above, is mountainous and covered with dense forests of white pine,
cedar, and other evergreen trees. The soil is an indifferent vegetable
deposit six or seven inches in depth, resting on a stratum of sand or
{239} coarse gravel. The whole remaining portion of the valley is said to
be cut with low mountains running north-westwardly and south-eastwardly;
among which are immense tracts of marshes and lakes, formed by cold
torrents from the heights that encircle them. The soil not thus occupied,
is too poor for successful cultivation. Mr. Macgillivray, the person in
charge at Fort Alexandria, in 1827, says:[53] “All the vegetables we
planted, notwithstanding the utmost care and precaution, nearly failed;
and the last crop of potatoes did not yield one-fourth of the seed
planted.” The timber of this region consists of all the varieties of the
fir, the spruce, pine, poplar, willow, cedar, cyprus, birch and alder.
The climate is very peculiar. The spring opens about the middle of April.
From this time the weather is delightful till the end of May. In June
the south wind blows, and brings incessant rains. In July and August the
heat is almost insupportable. In September the whole valley is enveloped
in fogs so dense, that objects one hundred yards distant cannot be seen
till ten o’clock in the day. In October the leaves change their colour
and begin to fall. In November, the lakes, and portions of the rivers are
{240} frozen. The winter months bring snow. It is seldom severely cold.
The mercury in Fahrenheit’s scale sinks a few days only, as low as ten or
twelve degrees below zero.
That part of Oregon bounded on the north by Shmillamen River,[54] and
on the east by Oakanagan and Columbia Rivers, south by the Columbia,
and west by the President’s Range, is a broken plain, partially covered
with the short and bunch grasses; but so destitute of water, that a
small portion only of it, can ever be depastured. The eastern and
middle portions of it are destitute of timber—a mere sunburnt waste.
The northern part has a few wooded hills and streams, and prairie
valleys. Among the lower hills of the President’s Range, too, there are
considerable pine and fir forests; and rather extensive prairies, watered
by small mountain streams; but nearly all of the whole surface of this
part of Oregon, is a worthless desert.
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