Farnham's Travels in the Great Western Prairies, etc., part 2, October 21-December 4, 1839: and De Smet's Oregon Missions and Travels over the Rocky Mountains, 1845-1846Smet, Pierre-Jean de
History
Farnham's Travels in the Great Western Prairies, etc., part 2, October 21-December 4, 1839: and De Smet's Oregon Missions and Travels over the Rocky Mountains, 1845-1846
Smet, Pierre-Jean de
Indians of North America -- West (U.S.); Oregon -- Description and travel; Overland journeys to the Pacific; Rocky Mountains -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- History -- To 1848
The tract bounded north by the Columbia, east by the Blue Mountains,
south by the forty-second parallel of north latitude, and west by the
President’s Range, is a plain of vast rolls or swells, of a light,
yellowish, sandy clay, partially covered with the short and bunch
grasses, mixed with the prickly {241} pear and wild wormwood. But water
is so very scarce, that it can never be generally fed; unless, indeed,
as some travellers, in their praises of this region, seem to suppose,
the animals that usually live by eating and drinking, should be able
to dispense with the latter, in a climate where nine months in the
year, not a particle of rain or dew falls, to moisten a soil as dry
and loose as a heap of ashes. On the banks of the Luhon, John Days,
Umatalla, and Wallawalla Rivers[55]—which have an average length of
thirty miles—without doubt, extensive tracts of grass may be found in the
neighbourhood of water; but it is also true that not more than a fifth
part of the surface within twenty-five miles of these streams, bears
grass or any other vegetation.
The portion also which borders the Columbia, produces some grass. But of
a strip six miles in width, and extending from the Dalles to the mouth of
the Saptin, not an hundredth part bears the grasses; and the sides of the
chasm of the river are so precipitous, that not a fiftieth part of this
can be fed by animals which drink at that stream. In proceeding southward
on the head waters of the small streams, John Days and Umatalla, the face
of the plain rises gradually {242} into vast irregular swells, destitute
of timber and water. On the Blue Mountains are a few pine and spruce
trees of an inferior growth. On the right tower the white peaks and
thickly wooded hills of the President’s Range.
The space south-east of the Blue Mountains is a barren, thirsty waste,
of light, sandy, and clayey soil—strongly impregnated with nitre. A
few small streams run among the sand hills; but they are so strongly
impregnated with various kinds of salts, as to be unfit for use. These
brooks empty themselves into the lakes, the waters of which are salter
than the ocean. Near latitude 43° north, the Klamet River rises and runs
westerly, through the President’s Range.[56] On these waters are a few
productive valleys; westwardly from them to the Saptin the country is
dry and worthless.
The part of Oregon lying between the Straits de Fuca on the north,
the President’s Range on the east, the Columbia on the south, and the
ocean on the west, is thickly covered with pines, cedars, and firs of
extraordinary size; and beneath these, a growth of brush and brambles
which defies the most vigorous foot to penetrate. Along the banks of the
Columbia, indeed, strips {243} of prairie may be met with, varying from a
few rods to three miles in width, and often several miles in length; and
even amidst the forests are found a few open spaces.
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