Northward from Albuquerque for 40 miles, the beautiful valley of the Rio Grande contains much of appeal to the student of history and of Indian life. That is the region called in the chronicle of Coronado’s expedition, the Province of Tigüex (pronounced _tee-wesh_); and here that doughty conquistador spent his first New Mexican winter (1540-41) at a pueblo now vanished, in the neighborhood, it is believed, of the picturesque town of Bernalillo[21] 17 miles north of Albuquerque. It was a winter so marked with wanton deeds of deviltry by the soldiery towards the peaceably disposed natives, that the whole region was soon seething in revolt—but helpless revolt because of the guns and horses of those profligate swashbucklers, who disgraced the Christianity they professed. Several pueblos are still extant in that stretch. There is Sandia, a moribund little place 10 miles from Albuquerque, and within walking distance of Alameda Station on the railway, but hardly worth the trip. North of Bernalillo a couple of miles is a summer pueblo, Ranchitos de Santa Ana (the little farms of Santa Ana), occupied during the growing season by Indians whose home pueblo, Santa Ana, is a dozen miles to the northwest in a virtual desert overlooking the saline flats of the Jemes River. Thither they go to dwell in winter and eat up the crops raised in summer beside the great river. In the same direction 13 miles beyond Santa Ana (25 from Bernalillo) is the important pueblo of the Jemes (_Hay´-mes_) Indians, about 500 in number.[22] The village is beautifully situated at the mouth of San Diego Cañon. Its public fiesta is held on St. James’s Day, November 12, and is much attended by Americans, Mexicans, Pueblos, Navajos and Apaches. The region nearby is sprinkled with ruins of old pueblos which are the subject of considerable literature of the antiquarian sort. A capital and reliable popular article on the Jemes Indians by Mr. A. B. Reagan, appeared in the April, 1917, issue of “El Palacio,” the journal of the Archaeological Society of New Mexico. A few miles before reaching Jemes the traveler passes the once powerful, but now small pueblo of Sia (_See-a_), with a population of barely 100. Its decline is attributed in part to remorseless inter-killing on suspicion of witchcraft, a sort of superstition that the Pueblos, unlike ourselves, have not yet outgrown. Its festival is on August 15, the Feast of the Assumption of Our Lady, and is attended by many visiting Indians, especially Navajos, who give it a special tinge of picturesqueness. From Albuquerque Jemes may be reached directly by auto-mail stage which passes the pueblo and then proceeds 13 miles further to Jemes Springs postoffice in San Diego Cañon. Near this place are some medicinal springs of local repute—iron, soda and sulphur—and a modest hotel of the country sort. The stage leaves Albuquerque daily except Sunday, and if you do not mind a bit of roughing it, the trip (about 50 miles to Jemes pueblo) will be an