Finding the Worth While in the SouthwestSaunders, Charles Francis
History
Finding the Worth While in the Southwest
Saunders, Charles Francis
Southwest, New -- Description and travel
experience to talk about.
Continuing up the Rio Grande from Bernalillo, you next come (10 miles
from Bernalillo, or 3 from Algodones Station on the Santa Fe) to the
pueblo of San Felipe at the foot of a long, black, treeless mesa on the
west bank of the river. Its fine, white Mission church, dating back some
200 years, is a prominent sight from the car windows of Santa Fe trains.
The ruins of a previous church and pueblo of the San Felipeños are
visible on the summit of the mesa, and a climb to them will reward you,
at least with a fine view of the Rio Grande valley. San Felipe’s
principal public fiesta is held May 1.
Another dozen miles up the river—but now on the east side—is the pueblo
of Santo Domingo, whose 800 Indians are about the most set-in-their-ways
of any in New Mexico. This conservatism serves, however, to make their
Green Corn Dance (held on August 4, the feast day of their patron Saint
Dominic), of especial worth, because the ceremony has been comparatively
little debased by the hybrid innovations which are spoiling many of the
native rites of the Pueblos. There are some preliminary ceremonies the
afternoon before, which it is interesting to view. The pueblo is easily
reached, as it is but a couple of miles from Domingo station on the
Santa Fe railway. The visitor is forewarned that there is a particularly
strong objection at Santo Domingo to picture-taking and cameras are
blacklisted. Even artists of the brush have been ejected from the
village. In passing, it should be stated that the dances of the Pueblos
are not jollifications as among white people, but religious
ceremonials—expressions of thanksgiving to their supernal protectors for
blessings received and prayers for favors to come, as rain and bountiful
crops. Santo Domingo is famous for its beautiful pottery—a heavy ware,
but remarkable for an almost Greek grace of form, adorned with geometric
designs in black on pink or creamy white.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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