‘Merchants’ marks, which appear to have been imitated from the Flemings
during the reign of Edward the Third, and became very common during the
fifteenth and early part of the sixteenth century, both on seals and
signet-rings, offer a somewhat curious field for research, and are often
very useful in identifying the persons by whom domestic and parts of
ecclesiastical edifices on which they occur were built. They were more
generally used in the great seaports of England than in the south--a fact
which is readily accounted for by the frequent intercourse between those
ports and Flanders. It may be observed also that such marks belonged
chiefly to wool-factors, or merchants of the staple.’--_Archæological
Journal_ for March 1848.
[Illustration: Merchants’ rings.]
* * * * *
In the collections of our English antiquaries are numerous specimens of
_thumb-rings_, and in the chapter on ‘Ecclesiastical Usages in Connection
with Rings’ I have mentioned several of particular interest, notably an
effigy with a signet-ring of remarkable size represented as worn over both
the thumbs. Dr. Bruce found some thumb-rings along the line of the Roman
wall.
The custom of wearing thumb-rings is alluded to by Chaucer, in the
‘Squire’s Tale,’ where it is said of the rider of the brazen horse who
advanced into the hall, Cambuscan, that ‘upon his thumb he had of gold a
ring.’ Brome, in the ‘Antipodes,’ 1638, and also in the ‘Northern Lass:’
‘A good man in the city wears nothing rich about him but the gout, or a
thumb-ring.’
In the ‘Archæological Journal’ (vol. iii. page 268) is a representation of
a curious thumb-ring, which supplies a good example of the signet
thumb-ring of the fifteenth century. It is of silver, alloyed, or plated
with baser metal and strongly gilt. The hoop is grooved spirally, and the
initial H is engraved upon it; weight 17 dwts. 18 grs. It was found in
1846, in dredging in the bed of the river Severn, at a place called
Saxon’s or Saxton’s Lode.
Signet rings of this kind were worn by rich citizens, or persons of
substance not entitled to bear arms. Falstaff bragged that in his earlier
years he had been so slender in figure that he could readily have crept
through an ‘alderman’s thumb-ring,’ and a ring thus worn--probably, as
more conspicuous--appears to have been considered as appropriate to the
customary attire of a civic dignitary at a much later period. A character
in the Lord Mayor’s show in 1664 is described as ‘habited like a grave
citizen--gold girdle and gloves hung thereon, rings on his fingers, and a
seal-ring on his thumb.’
In Labartes ‘Hand-book of the Fine Arts in the Middle Ages’ is a
representation of a fine thumb-ring, of Hindoo workmanship, cut out of a
single piece of jade, decorated with gold filagree, and incrusted with
rubies.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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