The Yezdi’s ideas on the regions beyond his very narrow horizon are
distinctly confused. If you begin to talk to him about other places, you
are met not by mere ignorance of geography, but by a conception of the
surface of the earth that is ludicrously impossible. It is difficult for
a European to conceive of a number of towns and villages, containing
several millions of people, bedded out over an enormous desert area
considerably larger than the whole of France. It is equally difficult for
the Yezdi to conceive of a natural and continuous land. Even those who
have travelled a little outside Yezd, and have been obliged to modify
slightly the Yezdi conception of the universe, have built up their
notions of the world’s surface upon what seems to us a most peculiar
first idea; and they have in most cases clung to far more of their
original views than we should believe possible.
The Yezdi’s idea of the town as the only geographical and political unit
is simply a generalisation from the circumstances of his own city. Yezd
is a solitary object rising abruptly out of a vast desert that is about
the nearest thing to a vacuum which Nature has yet produced. Then too,
the methods by which the Shah retains his half of the government of the
country—I say his half, for half of the real control of the people is
in the hands of the Mussulman clergy—is in some points similar to the
old Roman system of provincial government. The local governor, and not
the supreme sovereign, is the real ruler, and he rather than his people
is responsible to the head of the State. Of course he is only appointed
for a time, and is in constant expectation of recall. Still, while he
remains, his power is limited more by the power of the Mohammedan mullās
on the one hand, and by the strength and number of his subordinate
officials and guards on the other, and much less by the orders and
authority that he receives from Tehran. But it is true that the Yezdi
exaggerates the separateness of his town, for he hardly recognises the
actual limitations to the Governor’s power made and enforced by the
Shah. Of course it is thoroughly understood that the Governor only holds
his office by the Shah’s appointment; but it is very difficult for the
Yezdi to realise that that appointment, while it lasts, is to anything
short of autocracy. So to him the local Government is _the_ Government,
and the local Governor the real ruler of his country, that is to say of
the district surrounding his town; and it would puzzle him if you were
to tell him that there were people in this world, living together in
one sphere of government, who were not resident in one town, or in the
district that belonged to it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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