collected and covered over even the faintest vestige of vegetable life.
[Illustration: HUJJATABAD, THE FIRST STAGE FROM YEZD.
Sandy desert, with qan’at pits in foreground.]
The typical Persian plain is very long, appearing to be comparatively
narrow, and certainly flat beyond conception. The plains through which
one approaches Yezd from Kashan or Kirman are probably on the average
about sixty miles broad. But the huge barren mountains, lying in long
jagged ranges to the right and left, show with such plainness of detail
from every point, that the traveller unused to the clear atmosphere of
the East can hardly credit the full size and distance. Mountains, plains,
foreground, and far perspective, everything, in the Yezd district at any
rate, is one neutral tint of brown, except for the snow lying on the
rocks of the mountain-top, the long flakes of salt scattered here and
there about the plain, or the continual moving mirage. Even at sunrise
and sunset, when the sky and distant hills put on a colouring of glorious
brilliancy, there is an utter absence of those soft tones in the
foreground which can only be given by sunlight in a humid atmosphere.
Near Yezd there rise into sight brown villages, excrescences of the same
material as that on which they stand, isolated separate objects with
sharp definite bounds. The scanty, hedgeless crops that surround them,
usually arranged in oblong patches like small allotments, seldom show
until the traveller is quite near; the few trees are wretchedly poor in
size and colour, and the walls and buildings are simply mud, of which
three parts are in ruins.
After a few of these villages we come to Yezd itself, equally isolated
from everything, and in other respects very much the same as the
villages. However, as we approach the town by most of the main roads,
there are no fields and no trees at all. Also there are sticking out
from the town a lot of high square air-shafts, looking like short
factory chimneys. Yezd, like the villages, is brown, but there are a few
patches of white. There are one or two very faintly tiled minarets and a
newer-looking green dome; but these things are not sufficiently striking
to modify the general brown effect.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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