Now we are among the _bāghs_.[1] A _bāgh_ is an enclosure, generally
oblong, consisting of mud walls twelve feet high, surrounding a planted
area. Very often a _bagh_ contains nothing but fields of farm crops.
The better class _baghs_, belonging to the richer Persians, have in the
centre a kind of summer dwelling-house with plenty of porticos, built on
a very open-air pattern. Such _baghs_ are well stocked with fruit trees
and rose bushes; there may also be a few small elms, or short poplars,
or perhaps some cypresses. There are not many flowers. Here, too, most
of the area is given up to farm crops. Everything is laid out after the
plan of a Dutch garden, but without the turf and thick foliage, and
also without the extreme trimness that we connect with such places. In
the better gardens there is always a small gutter of running water, and
generally an artificial tank with a stone border. This is the part of the
_bagh_ most highly prized by the natives. In Persia a small artificial
channel with a stream of water about two feet across seems to give that
air of distinction to a house which we expect from a well-kept lawn
with good flower-beds. From the road nothing can be seen of all this
greenery except the tops of the highest trees. In Yezd indeed only the
_baghs_ that lie some way out up the course of the _qan’ats_ show as much
as this. Just round the town nothing is to be seen but the bare walls
and the gateways of the gardens. The gateways have some brickwork about
them, and are sometimes partially whitened. They stand back from the
road. The tops of the mud walls are generally in bad repair, and here
and there we come across a jagged hole that has been made as a short cut
into the garden by the gardener. In such cases the pieces of mud and
sun-dried bricks, when they have been taken out, lie in the street. Where
the surface of the thoroughfare has not been taken up for bricks, which
by the way are left to bake in the sun in the middle of the road, it is
generally used for drying manure that has been kneaded with a modicum
of earth. The dyers also use the street for hanging up their cloths to
dry, and also for arranging their skeins of silk, which they twist round
wooden pegs stuck into the wall about forty yards apart. The road surface
is a little irregular, and occasionally it is made more interesting by
a shaft leading into a _qan’at_. As we approach the houses proper the
road narrows, for it is only the natural lane between enclosures, and
the house enclosures, which from the outside are exactly similar to the
_baghs_, lie closer together.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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