In the summer of 1472 the Gonfalonier of Florence, Tanai de’ Nerli,
received the Captain-General of the Florentine army, Count Federigo
di Montefeltre, outside the city gates and escorted him, amid the
acclamations of the citizens, to the Piazza, where the magistrates
thanked him for his services in conquering rebellious Volterra, and
presented him with a richly caparisoned charger and a silver helmet
studded with jewels and chased in gold by Pollajuolo, with Hercules
trampling on a griffin (the device of Volterra) as its crest. The
grateful Republic also bought Rusciano of Luca Pitti and bestowed it
on their victorious general together with the freedom of the city. But
he does not seem to have inhabited his Florentine villa long, for in
the following year it was let to Giuliano Gondi, and towards the end of
the fifteenth century Federigo’s successor, Guidobaldo, Duke of Urbino,
sold it to the Frescobaldi. After this Rusciano changed hands every few
years and was owned by the Covoni, Usimbardi, Capponi, Gerini and many
other less illustrious Florentine families, until in 1825 it came into
the possession of an Englishman, Mr Baring, and after three more sales
the noble old villa now belongs to Baron von Stumm.
The Baron is a master in the art of landscape gardening, and with
a northerner’s love for trees has transformed the grounds into a
veritable earthly paradise, whence lovely views of Florence, framed
by rare conifers and bays, are like so many glimpses of a fairy city.
When seen on a morning with deep snow lying on every mountain, while a
pale tinge of colour among the vineyards tells of coming spring in the
valley of the Arno, and the city, usually so brown and strongly defined
upon the river banks, shines white as though reflecting the dazzling
snow peaks around, one is tempted to exclaim with Rogers,
“Of all the fairest cities of the Earth
None is so fair as Florence. ’Tis a gem
Of purest ray.”
All the town lies below us, but unlike the vast unbroken bird’s-eye
view from Bellosguardo or San Miniato, here we only feel her presence,
and while listening to the midday bells we see, between two clumps of
slender bamboo, Palazzo Vecchio looming like some enchanter’s castle
out of the thick atmosphere and suffused with rosy hues. The mysterious
feeling of the building is enhanced, for the bay and olive trees hide
the houses around it and nothing of the modern town is visible.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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