Four years aboard the whaleship: Embracing cruises in the Pacific, Atlantic, Indian, and Antarctic oceans, in the years 1855, '6, '7, '8, '9Whitecar, William B.
History
Four years aboard the whaleship: Embracing cruises in the Pacific, Atlantic, Indian, and Antarctic oceans, in the years 1855, '6, '7, '8, '9
Whitecar, William B.
Sailors; Voyages and travels; Whaling
At about ten A. M. the captain went ashore with a boat’s crew, for
the purpose of purchasing stores for the ship, excellent potatoes and
onions being produced in this genial climate, and from the little
intercourse these people hold with the rest of mankind, can be obtained
at a mere nominal price. On nearing the shore we found the coast rocky
and precipitous, covered with herbage of the richest green; a heavy
surf was beating on the rocks, but we landed by the assistance of the
Portuguese, who fearlessly plunged into the water and hauled our boat
ashore. We found on the beach a concourse of dark and light, young and
old, male and female, assembled to meet us; all shoeless, and many of
them hatless; all making a noise and bounding from cliff to cliff with
little less agility than the goats, of which great numbers are kept
for the sake of their milk and skins. On proceeding to the town, the
name of which I never could discover, not having seen an American who
knew, or a Portuguese who could tell me what it was, although I have
asked the question frequently, always with the same result, we found
that it was built without regard to order or regularity--the buildings
of stone. Many plats of ground were surrounded by immense stone walls;
some of these plats are not more than sixteen feet square, but are
enclosed by walls two feet thick, reminding one of the masonry in the
German castles of romance. At the town we saw little to attract except
the merry appearance of the female, and scowling expression of the male
inhabitants; the men looking upon us, it seemed, as intruders, and
desiring but little intercourse with us; the women, although barefooted
and with hair unkempt, their negligent dress exposing rather more of
their persons than accordant with modesty, were more than affable;
every article of our apparel that was exposed to their view being made
by them a price for which they were willing to prostitute themselves;
and so pertinacious were they, that it was with difficulty a sheath
knife was wrested from one of them by a blushing boy of our party to
whom their immodest offers (having but three weeks previously left
the bosom of a virtuous family of mother and sisters), sounded like
sacrilege, and, as he afterwards expressed himself, absolutely appalled
him. We saw little evidence of cultivation in the town; but upon
inquiry were informed, as well as their broken English could enlighten
us, that the produce grew higher up--in the mountains. To scale these
we were not adventurous enough; so we sat down, and, after some
bargaining, procured boiled eggs, fruit, bread, and sour wine, on which
we made a hearty repast. I observed about the town cows, pigs, and
dogs, but neither jackass nor donkey; so I do not think the aforesaid
long-eared gentleman possesses the right or title to claim the
paternity of the world-renowned jackass cheese; although seamen, in a
spirit of vagary, have given to it the appellation of that intellectual
animal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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