The first thing to attend to after we had looked round a little was to
find a place to lodge. This matter was soon settled by our Army chaplain
taking us to the quarters which had been assigned to him by the military
authorities. This lodging was novel, for it consisted of one of the
buildings belonging to a large Buddhist monastery, substantially built of
teak, and with the usual highly quaint, ornamental and fantastic-looking
roof, richly decorated with most elaborate carving all over, and tapering
at one end into the form of a spire. There were many other buildings
of a similar kind around us, some of them really grand and imposing.
Within a very short distance of us, in buildings of a similar kind, which
are quite different from the ordinary Burmese houses, the whole of the
2nd Battalion of the Hampshire Regiment, several hundreds strong, were
lodged. It was said by the chief Buddhist authorities about the time of
the annexation that there were close upon six thousand monks in Mandalay,
but there are monastery buildings to accommodate many times that number.
In addition to all the monks, the entire British force of English troops,
Native Indian Sepoy troops, and military police in Mandalay, altogether
several thousands strong, were lodged in monastery buildings, and still
there was plenty of room to spare.
Mandalay has been well styled the Vatican of Buddhism. So numerous are
the religious buildings they seem almost endless, and it is evident that
no small portion of the resources of the country must have gone in these
works of merit. Within a day or two of our arrival, when we began to look
about, we found that we were in close proximity to many remarkably fine
religious buildings, and many startling contrasts were brought into view
by the exigencies of the times. Close by the quarters of the Hampshire
Regiment was a pagoda of fantastic shape. Being a brick building, and not
liable to catch fire, it had been put in use as the armourer’s shop, and
there the regimental blacksmith was at work with his anvil and tools, his
portable fireplace and bellows, and close beside him, as he worked, was
the beautiful marble image of Buddha for which the pagoda was erected.
The regimental canteen, from whence proceeded of an evening the loud
laughter of the soldiers in their cups, and the singing of many a
long-drawn-out song in the true English vernacular, was originally a
building consecrated to Buddhist meditation, asceticism and prayer. The
regimental guard-room—and in those days they had to keep good watch and
ward, for the country was in a state of great disturbance—was a Burmese
zayat or resting-place, built by the piety of some one for the benefit
of frequenters of these holy places, who little imagined that his zayat
would ever be used as a place of detention for drunken and refractory
British soldiers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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