But the great sight of the place is the “Incomparable Pagoda,” as the
Burmans proudly style it, situated close by the guard-room, and directly
facing the beautiful monastery building then used as the officers’ mess.
This remarkable structure is a huge pile of building raised upon vast
masonry pillars. It measures fully 300 feet in length, is proportionately
broad, and rises in the form of a pyramid to such a height as to be
visible several miles off. Its sumptuously carved and gilded teak-wood
doors, forty-four in number, are quite a sight to see in themselves, as
is also the magnificent decorative plaster work all around and over the
building, and rising to its very summit. At that time, in the absence of
churches and chapels, for want of a better place with sufficient space
for hundreds to assemble together, the Hampshire Regiment used to have
“church parade” in the vast expanse amongst the pillars at the basement
of the Incomparable Pagoda. It was a cool, airy, comfortable place, and
open on all sides to the breeze, so that it answered very well in such a
hot climate.
There also many other meetings were held in those days of “Field
Service,” when we had all to be satisfied with such accommodation as we
could get. It was there our prayer-meetings and class-meetings were held
for the soldiers, and there, amidst that wilderness of pillars, under
that vast heathen shrine, we had the joy of directing anxious penitents
to the Saviour, and there, too, we held, in company with Major Yates of
the Royal Artillery, the first temperance meeting ever held in Mandalay.
Leaving this Bethel of ours at the basement of the Incomparable Pagoda,
and ascending by one of the fine broad flights of steps, the visitor
comes to the wooden platform of the pagoda, and on being ushered in by
the polite old abbot or presiding monk, he sees a very fine, spacious
building, very lofty, with many images of Buddha, sheltered under great
white canopies, besides some curiosities of European manufacture, such as
mirrors of vast size, and gigantic coloured glass chandeliers, that must
have been imported at immense cost.
But _the_ sight of the place is the hall which contains the marvellous
wood carvings in relief, all of Burmese workmanship, representing most
clearly all manner of sacred histories and incidents, the whole of
this elaborate and ingenious work being overlaid with gold leaf. Truly
Mandalay is a wonderful place for religious buildings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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