From Berlin to Bagdad and BabylonZahm, J. A. (John Augustine)
HistoryChristian
From Berlin to Bagdad and Babylon
Zahm, J. A. (John Augustine)
Middle East -- Civilization; Middle East -- Description and travel
The first objects of note to arrest our attention below Belgrade are
the great ruined fortress of Sendria and, further downstream, the
ruins of the two castles of Galambocz and Laszlovar. These massive
strongholds, located on opposite sides of the river, guarded what was
long known as “The Key of the Danube.” They, like the scores of ruins
which we have passed on our way from Ratisbon, are rich in historic and
legendary associations of the most interesting character.
Near Galambocz is shown a great cavern, in which, legend has it, St.
George slew the dragon. When we reflect that practically nothing is
known of the patron of chivalry and the champion of Christendom, except
that he suffered martyrdom at or near Lydda in Palestine before the
time of the Emperor Constantine, it becomes difficult to account for
the existence of this dragon-slaying tradition in this spot. Its origin
may be due to pilgrims or Crusaders, who brought it from the Holy Land
in the same way as they popularized the _cultus_ of the Saint in
England as early as the days of Arculph and Richard Coeur de Lion.
But after all, it is no more difficult to account for the contest
between St. George and the dragon here than at “a stagne or a pond like
a sea,” near Silena in Libya, as we read of it in Caxton’s version
of the _Legenda Aurea_, or, to explain the associations of the
martyr-knight with the Order of the Garter, the Union Jack or the white
ensign of the British Navy.
Immediately below Galambocz we enter the wildest and grandest scenery
along the Danube. The foaming rapids and the towering cliffs of the
gorge of Kazan recall the famed cañons of Colorado or Montana, although
in magnitude and grandeur it is far inferior to the stupendous gorges
of the Arkansas or the Yellowstone.
But far more interesting to me than the gorge itself was an inscription
at the lower end which is cut in the solid rock and commemorates the
completion of the marvelous roadway which the Romans constructed along
the western face of this formidable defile. To me it seemed one of the
most extraordinary of all the countless achievements of imperial Rome
in the entire length of the Danube valley. The inscription reads:
IMP. CÆS. D. NERVÆ. FILIUS. NERVA. TRAJANUS.
AUG. GERM. PONT. MAX....
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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