From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
Such was the country that had been described to me by Dr. Kandt, who had
visited it six months before, as a beautiful district teeming with
peaceful agricultural folk. The natives informed me that of all that
flourishing community but sixty remained. I was very anxious about
Sharp, fearing that he might enter the country by a different road to
that by which I had just left. Had he arrived hampered by a large
caravan and cattle, he must inevitably have been destroyed. Hoping that
he was still south of the volcanoes, I hurried east through the forest
that is springing up on the great lava-bed thrown out by the last
eruption but one. Here too the path was strewn with skulls, showing the
desperate efforts that the Baleka had made to force an entry into
Bugoie. Late in the afternoon we arrived at an old volcanic cone. This
was the outpost of Bugoie, and the few wretched survivors, seeing us
approaching through the forest, naturally mistook us for Baleka, and
quickly prepared for battle. It was only after an hour’s shouting that
we allayed their fears. With some difficulty we managed to procure a
jar of bad water, which we sadly needed, having had nothing to drink
since daybreak, and we endeavoured to appease our ravening hunger with a
brace of pumpkins, which was all the poor creatures had to offer us.
Their destitution was complete, and filled me with pity, but I was
powerless to assist them. It was impossible to obtain any definite
information about Sharp, and it was with the direst forebodings that I
started the following morning, as I knew that there was now no chance of
intercepting him. However, an hour later I met an elderly pigmy in the
forest and managed to induce him to talk. He was a splendid little
fellow full of self-confidence, and gave me most concise information,
stating that the white man with many belongings had passed near by two
days before, and had then gone down to the lake-shore, where he was
camped at that moment. These people must have a wonderful code of signs
and signals, as, despite their isolated and nomadic existence, they
always know exactly what is happening everywhere. He was a typical
pigmy as found on the volcanoes--squat, gnarled, proud, and easy of
carriage. His beard hung down over his chest, and his thighs and chest
were covered with wiry hair. He carried the usual pigmy bow made of two
pieces of cane spliced together with grass, and with a string made of a
single strand of a rush that grows in the forests.
I sent off two of my boys with a note to Sharp, and pushed on as fast as
possible to the food districts of Bugoie, where my boys ate so much that
I despaired of their surviving. For the next two days I was very ill,
owing to my having eaten a number of green bananas in the first banana
plantation that I entered. The scarcity of water made it still more
difficult to endure the pangs of hunger during the last day of our
march.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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