From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
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From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
Having partially recovered, I marched back to my northernmost camp and
waited for Sharp. The natives, thinking that I could be imposed upon
with my small caravan, ignored my presence, and in face of several
requests refused to bring in food for sale. The country was very rich
in produce, so I warned the chief that unless he brought in food in the
ordinary way for sale I should be obliged to come and take what I
wanted, as I could not starve. I was just preparing to carry out my
threat, when Sharp arrived, and the chief soon turned up with a diseased
sheep and about a quart of flour, which I promptly clapped on to his
head, while Sharp roared with laughter at him. He tried hard to
maintain his dignity, but with little effect: a little, tub-bellied man,
he presented the most ridiculous spectacle imaginable as he stalked out
of camp half black, half white, preceded by his awed followers. In the
afternoon he returned with plenty of supplies, and after receiving a
handsome present in exchange, retired quite satisfied. After making yet
two more attempts after elephant, in the course of which I came on many
cattle-yards hidden in the deepest recesses of the forest, we gave it up
as hopeless, and determined to press on to the Albert Edward Lake.
During one of my elephant hunts I came on the skeleton of a gigantic
ape, larger than anything I have ever seen in the anthropoids, but I
never saw a live specimen, though the natives assured me that they were
plentiful, and were a great source of annoyance to the villages, being
in the habit of carrying off stray women.
While exploring with a small number of followers, I observed some
ape-like creatures leering at me from behind banana-palms, and with
considerable difficulty my Ruanda guide induced one of them to come and
be inspected. He was a tall man with the long arms, pendent paunch, and
short legs of the ape, pronouncedly microcephalous and prognathous. At
first he was terribly alarmed, but soon gained confidence, and when I
asked him about game and elephant, he gave me most realistic
representations of them and of how they should be attacked. I failed to
exactly define their status, but from the contempt in which they were
held by the Wa Ruanda their local caste must be very low. The stamp of
the brute was so strong on them that I should place them lower in the
human scale than any other natives I have seen in Africa. Their type is
quite distinct from the other people’s, and, judging from the twenty to
thirty specimens that I saw, very consistent. Their face, body, and
limbs are covered with wiry hair, and the hang of the long, powerful
arms, the slight stoop of the trunk, and the hunted, vacant expression
of the face, made up a _tout ensemble_ that was a terrible pictorial
proof of Darwinism. Two of them accompanied me to Mushari. On the road
they showed me the ease with which they can make fire with their
fire-sticks.
*CHAPTER XIII.*
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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