From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
A slight mishap with the machinery delayed us for several hours, and it
was not till noon the following day that we reached Makwira’s village.
Young Makwira, who is quite the young gentleman, in knickers, stockings,
spats, collar, and hard hat, provided us with whiskies and milk, and
discussed local politics, displaying no little acumen. I believe that
it was his father who used to be a terror to all travellers on the
Shiré, and that but a few years ago, when the elephant still roamed in
thousands on the Elephant Marsh, undisturbed by the shrill whistle of
the stern-wheeler or the bark of the playful 4-bore. It was either old
Makwira or another genial darky in the vicinity, who for some time kept
a tame Portuguese band, and utilized the bandsmen when off duty as
machila-carriers.[#]
[#] _Machila_: Portuguese word acclimatized; a hammock slung to a pole
and carried by a team of men.
The Elephant Marsh is a large tract of country lying on the left bank of
the Shiré river, north of Chiromo. In days gone by it teemed with
elephant, buffalo, and game of all descriptions; but the persistent
gunner soon drove the elephant away and decimated the other beasts. And
it was due, I believe, to Sir Harry Johnston that it was made into a
game reserve. The effect has been most beneficial. Herds of waterbuck
and buffalo come to the banks of the river, and lazily watch the
steamers pass; and even elephant have been occasionally seen of late
playing in their old haunts. A more suitable spot for a reserve could
not have been selected. The Shiré and Ruo rivers to the south-west and
east, and the highlands to the north, form natural boundaries; there is
plenty of water and ample grazing at all times of the year. Every night
one may hear the lions roaring. By legislative foresight a game
paradise has been saved in the midst of one of the busiest and most
progressive of our African possessions.
At Makwira’s we reluctantly bade farewell to Mr. H. C. MacDonald, whose
dry humour and all-embracing hospitality had made my weary sojourn in
Chiromo one of the most delightful stages in our journey. The company
on the steamer was rather embarrassed by the extravaganzas of an
evangelical madman, who had arrived in the country in a state of
destitution, and who is probably by now, under the title D.B.S., a
burden on the community. Such men should be caged, or at least
prevented from running loose amongst the natives, and adding to the
already well-nigh insuperable difficulties of the administration.
A few hours’ run brought us to Katunga’s, the African Lakes
Corporation’s port for Blantyre. The Government station is a little
distance further up the river. The crocodiles, which were very numerous,
had been causing much mortality amongst the natives; one had even seized
the station’s bucket, which, for greater safety, was lowered into the
river to draw water from the end of a long pole.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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