Galicia, the Switzerland of SpainMeakin, Annette M. B.
History
Galicia, the Switzerland of Spain
Meakin, Annette M. B.
Galicia (Spain : Region)
Muros is believed to have been founded by Greek colonists long before
the Christian era, and the classic beauty of its women is attributed to
the fact that the town never, till quite lately, had much intercourse
with other places, and that the purity of the Greek type was thus handed
down from one generation to another. My hostess in Santiago had talked
much of Muros and its beautiful women; she described them as mostly
fair-complexioned with very dark eyes, pearly teeth, and black hair, the
latter so thick that when worn in a plait “you could not get your
fingers round it, and so long that it reached to the feet.” “People turn
in the street to look at a Muros woman,” she added; “their beauty is so
striking.” These women have a dress of their own, loose and flowing;
they never cover their heads with either hat or handkerchief, though if
the weather is very cold they will draw their shawls up over their
heads.
Our third drive took us up the side of a hill called _Pena de Oro_ (Rock
of Gold), and bearing that name as far back as the fourteenth century,
as a recently discovered document testifies. Part way up the slope we
passed a charming villa and garden belonging to a Santiago family, that
of Don Pedro de Pais. A woman working there kindly came on with us as
our guide to a dolmen (cromlech) which we wished to visit. It was at
this point I took a photograph of Noya from the carriage. But no
photograph could do justice to its delicate framework of cherry and
apple blossoms, which literally smothered its innumerable villages, and
joined them all in one pink-and-white mass. It has been predicted that
these villages will ere long form part and parcel of Noya, for the
spaces between them are filling up rapidly.
The dolmen was situated on the flat top of a high hill far from all
human habitation, and shut in by pines and the slopes of yet higher
hills. It was a rough scramble up steep goat paths winding among stones
and furze. We found seven Druidical-looking stones placed in a small
circle round what had once been a grave. Sr. Barros Sevelo opened the
grave some thirty years ago, and describes the various implements,
ashes, torques, and urns, that he found there, in his book on the
antiquities of Galicia. The stones lean against one another like the
leaves of a tulip; there was once a great slab across the top. The
peasants of the neighbourhood call this dolmen _Casa dá Moura_, and
implicitly believe it to be a Moorish ruin, for the Moors are the only
strangers they have ever heard of; they attribute everything that is old
to them, including the Latin inscriptions! The hill on which the dolmen
stands is called _Monte Paraino_. From it we had an extensive view of
the valley through which our road passed, and of the villages on the
farther slope. Among them we noted a large white house, the residence of
a former _Rector_ of Santiago University, Señor Romero Blanco, who
enjoys considerable repute in the world of medicine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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