Galicia, the Switzerland of SpainMeakin, Annette M. B.
History
Galicia, the Switzerland of Spain
Meakin, Annette M. B.
Galicia (Spain : Region)
The river Miño lies between the railway station and the town, and is
crossed by an exceedingly fine bridge, which is acknowledged to be one
of the sights of Orense. Molina wrote of it that its principal arch was
so high and of such a width that the Miño could flow beneath the central
arch alone--even after its waters had been swollen by the reception of
its many effluents--without touching the other arches. This bridge, the
_Puente Mayor_, had originally nine arches, but several of them
disappeared at the time of its renovation. Until about 1830, a mediæval
fortress was still standing by the bridge, but it had to be removed on
account of its ruinous condition. This bridge is the highest in Spain,
as well as one of the finest.
Our first walk in Orense was to _Las Burgas_, the hot springs, which
have been known and appreciated by the inhabitants of Orense ever since
the days of the Romans. These springs have never been known to decrease
or to increase: the flow of their waters is always the same both in
summer and winter. Their water keeps hot longer than is the case with
boiled water. The water of one of the springs is hotter than that of the
other; it can be drunk cold, it has neither colour, taste, nor smell;
the water of the other is sulphurous. Descending a flight of stone
steps, I found the water of the first spring flowing through a granite
wall beneath an arch decorated with sculpture into a stone basin; a
small space round it was paved with granite and enclosed with a railing,
in front of which there was a small public garden laid out with paths
between its flower-beds. The water which overflowed from the basin ran
into a large tank, and here a group of women were engaged in washing
linen. The sight that met my eyes in the neighbourhood of the second
spring was less pleasing; here women were busy scalding and skinning
poultry at one tank, while at another they were cooking meat in the
seething water. There are butchers’ shops close by, and their meat is
carried down to the springs to be washed and cleaned before being
exposed for sale. I noticed that the women who were employed in skinning
and cleaning the carcases were standing with their bare feet ankle deep
in bloody water, on which there floated the usual refuse of a butcher’s
shop. The place might easily have been mistaken for a slaughter-house.
My guide informed me that on the occasion of a visit paid to the springs
last year by the present King of Spain, the whole place was cleaned up
and carefully prepared for the Royal visit.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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