In the changes that have recently taken place, many descriptions of ways and things now presented to the public will soon become almost matters of history and antiquarian interest. The passages here reprinted will be omitted in the forthcoming new edition of the Handbook, to which these pages may form a companion; but their chief object has been to offer a few hours’ amusement, and may be of instruction, to those who remain at home; and should the humble attempt meet with the approbation of fair readers, the author will bear, with more than Spanish resignation, whatever animadversions bearded critics may be pleased to inflict on this or on the other side of the water. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. .....PAGE A General View of Spain--Isolation--King of the Spains--Castilian Precedence--Localism--Want of Union--Admiration of Spain--M. Thiers in Spain.....1 CHAPTER II. The Geography of Spain--Zones--Mountains--The Pyrenees--The Gabacho, and French Politics.....7 CHAPTER III. The Rivers of Spain--Bridges--Navigation--The Ebro and Tagus.....23 CHAPTER IV. Divisions into Provinces--Ancient Demarcations--Modern Departments--Population--Revenue--Spanish Stocks.....30 CHAPTER V. Travelling in Spain--Steamers--Roads, Roman, Monastic, and Royal--Modern Railways--English Speculations.....40 CHAPTER VI. Post Office in Spain--Travelling with Post Horses--Riding post--Mails and Diligences, Galeras, Coches de Colleras, Drivers and Manner of Driving, and Oaths.....53 CHAPTER VII. Spanish Horses--Mules--Asses--Muleteers--Maragatos.....65 CHAPTER VIII. Riding Tour in Spain--Pleasures of it--Pedestrian Tour--Choice of Companions--Rules for a Riding Tour--Season of Year--Day’s Journey--Management of Horse; his Feet; Shoes; General Hints.....80 CHAPTER IX. The Rider’s Costume--Alforjas: Their contents--The Bota, and How to use it--Pig Skins and Borracha--Spanish Money--Onzas and smaller Coins.....94 CHAPTER X. Spanish Servants: their Character--Travelling Groom, Cook, and Valet.....105 CHAPTER XI. A Spanish Cook--Philosophy of Spanish Cuisine--Sauce--Difficulty of Commissariat--The Provend--Spanish Hares and Rabbits--The Olla--Garbanzos--Spanish Pigs--Bacon and Hams--Omelette--Salad and Gazpacho.....119 CHAPTER XII. Drinks of Spain--Water--Irrigation--Fountains--Spanish Thirstiness--The Alcarraza--Water Carriers--Ablutions--Spanish Chocolate--Agraz--Beer Lemonade.....136 CHAPTER XIII. Spanish Wines--Spanish Indifference--Wine-making--Vins du Pays--Local Wines--Benicarló--Valdepeñas.....145 CHAPTER XIV. Sherry Wines--The Sherry District--Origin of the Name--Varieties of Soil--Of Grapes--Pajarete--Rojas Clemente--Cultivation of Vines--Best Vineyards--The Vintage--Amontillado--The Capataz--The Bodega--Sherry Wine--Arrope and Madre Vino--A Lecture on Sherry in the Cellar--at the Table--Price of Fine Sherry--Falsification of Sherry--Manzanilla--The Alpistera.....150 CHAPTER XV.