Spanish Inns: Why so Indifferent--The Fonda--Modern Improvements--The Posada--Spanish Innkeepers--The Venta: Arrival in it--Arrangement--Garlic--Dinner--Evening--Night--Bill--Identity with the Inns of the Ancients.....165 CHAPTER XVI. Spanish Robbers--A Robber Adventure--Guardias Civiles--Exaggerated Accounts--Cross of the Murdered--Idle Robber Tales--French Bandittiphobia--Robber History--Guerrilleros--Smugglers--Jose Maria--Robbers of the First Class--The Ratero--Miguelites--Escorts and Escopeteros--Passes, Protections, and Talismans--Execution of a Robber.....186 CHAPTER XVII. The Spanish Doctor: His Social Position--Medical Abuses--Hospitals--Medical Education--Lunatic Asylums--Foundling Hospital of Seville--Medical Pretensions--Dissection--Family Physician--Consultations--Medical Costume--Prescriptions--Druggists--Snake Broth--Salve for Knife-cuts.....213 CHAPTER XVIII. Spanish Spiritual Remedies for the Body--Miraculous Relics--Sanative Oils--Philosophy of Relic Remedies--Midwifery and the Cinta of Tortosa--Bull of Crusade.....236 CHAPTER XIX. The Spanish Figaro--Mustachios--Whiskers--Beards--Bleeding--Heraldic Blood--Blue, Red, and Black Blood--Figaro’s Shop--The Baratero--Shaving and Toothdrawing.....255 CHAPTER XX. What to observe in Spain--How to observe--Spanish Incuriousness and Suspicions--French Spies and Plunderers--Sketching in Spain--Difficulties; How Surmounted--Efficacy of Passports and Bribes--Uncertainty and Want of Information in the Natives.....265 CHAPTER XXI. Origin of Bull-fight or Festival, and its Religious Character--Fiestas Reales--Royal Feasts--Charles I. at one--Discontinuance of the Old System--Sham Bull-fights--Plaza de Toros--Slang Language--Spanish Bulls--Breeds--The Going to a Bull-fight.....286 CHAPTER XXII. The Bull-fight--Opening of Spectacle--First Act, and Appearance of the Bull--The Picador--Bull Bastinado--The Horses, and their Cruel Treatment--Fire and Dogs--The Second Act--The Chulos and their Darts--The Third Act--The Matador--Death of the Bull--The Conclusion, and Philosophy of the Amusement--Its Effect on Ladies.....300 CHAPTER XXIII. Spanish Theatre; Old and Modern Drama; Arrangement of Play-houses--The Henroost--The Fandango; National Dances--A Gipsy Ball--Italian Opera--National Songs and Guitars.....318 CHAPTER XXIV. Manufacture of Cigars--Tobacco--Smuggling _viâ_ Gibraltar--Cigars of Ferdinand VII.--Making a Cigarrito--Zumalacarreguy and the Schoolmaster--Time and Money wasted in Smoking--Postscript on Spanish Stock.....335 GATHERINGS FROM SPAIN. CHAPTER I. A general view of Spain--Isolation--King of the Spains--Castilian precedence--Localism--Want of Union--Admiration of Spain--M. Thiers in Spain. [Sidenote: KING OF THE SPAINS.] [Sidenote: LOCALISM OF SPANIARDS.]